WELLIES AND WAFFLES AT NANUK LODGE

A stark warning in Churchill's Airport

With the closure of the rail line between Winnipeg and Churchill concern is rising for the future of the port city on Hudson Bay.  

A series of wash outs over the winter have made the train track inoperable and getting to and from Churchill is now only possible by air.  Shipped goods arrive by sea from Montreal, a long journey around Canada’s eastern coastline. 

The future looks bleak as food prices rise, every day goods are harder to come by and fuel supplies diminish.

The Polar Bear Jail

A glimpse of Churchill’s polar bear holding facility – aka the polar bear jail – brings home the harsh environment where polar bears often swagger into town in search of food.  

Safety in polar bear country is emphasized as these animals are aggressive and not to be messed with.  

Serious Bear Trap

Errant bears are trapped humanely in large culvert shaped containers then transferred to the holding facility where they are tagged and shipped home.  The tagging system has revealed many repeat offenders. 

Following a short flight from Winnipeg on Calm Air, which was very calm and particularly friendly, we spent the morning touring Churchill and fast gaining an appreciation for life along Hudson Bay. 

Our captain welcomes us on board

Hudson Bay beyond the mud flats

Later we boarded a Cessna Caravan for the one hour flight to the Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge located 250 kilometers south east of Churchill.  

Our pilot looked like he’d just hit puberty but despite youth his skill and experience soon became evident as he manoeuvred the aircraft so that we could all start viewing the object of our journey, the mighty polar bear.

Reflection on the Tundra

The view below us continued to change.  Watery inlets zigzagged towards the horizon. Fall colours reflected in the water, providing a colourful backdrop to those fluffy white blobs below us. On the shoreline a beached beluga’s body was being systematically stripped by hungry bears, its body and tail a foreboding red colour.  Other bears waited on the mud flats and we supposed there was a pecking order to things.

Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge

Comfortable digs

Our young pilot landed the aircraft skillfully on the rough dirt runway in front of the Nanuk Lodge and within an hour we were fitted out with boots and off on our first adventure after an orientation on bear safety. 

We were a long way from civilization, but not from the creature comforts.

Andy our guide

Its a little chilly up here

One of the Lodge's indoor viewing areas

ATVs and Rhinos take us out on the Tundra

Waiting for a bear to open its eyes!

Lovely fall colours

The next four days were divided between long outings on ATVs or Rhinos, excellent food and wine and even a glimpse of the Northern Lights.

But it was the brush with nature that left us with a lasting impression.

Our fabulous team of guides take a break with our accomplished Chef

ARCTIC ARISTOCRATS

The largest land carnivore on earth, the polar bear, has some pretty impressive statistics. Females weigh in about 700 pounds but males can reach 1200 pounds and measure eleven feet from nose to tail. 

Polar bears are marine mammals that would normally only leave the ice to have their cubs, but the ice in Hudson Bay melts completely each summer forcing the bears to shore. They prowl and sleep in a sort of meditative state until the Bay freezes over in November. Eating next to nothing during their hiatus ashore, as soon as the ice forms the bears go off in search of seal, their favourite food.

A polar bear’s sense of smell is impressive, capable of sniffing out a seal den through three feet of snow and ice.

Observing polar bears while they are landlocked is a careful business. Approaching a bear has to be done in a particular way so as not to upset the bear while keeping the humans safe. Massive bear tracks in the mud were a stark reminder of the size and power of these beautiful creatures.

Our excursions out on the tundra involved lots of preparation. Layers of thermal clothing, rain pants, boots, gloves, hats and hoods.  We must have been a strange sight for the bear as we stepped forward tentatively in single file through mud, standing water, grasses and spindly bushes flanked by our fearless leader with his colleagues to the rear, all of whom carried deterrents including firearms in the event of an emergency.

Periodically we would stop to observe in silence.  The bear’s huge body is covered with thick, dense creamy fur.  Below its furry covering about four inches of blubber insulate the bear from the elements while we, despite our various layers, shivered as we waited patiently for an eye to open, a paw to flex or a head to rise.  Our patience was eventually rewarded.

On one occasion the bear awoke from its slumber, two coal black eyes appearing through the fur directed straight at us. A wide yawn followed, then an enormous stretch which extended from head to tail before our bear sauntering off along the Hudson Bay shoreline.

 

Polar bears are solitary figures at this time of the year.  Evident as we flew low over the tundra on the return flight to Churchill we counted numerous bears on the headland, none of whom appeared to be grouped together.  It was a sight though, their white bodies contrasted against the changing colours of the season often casting beautiful shadows on the stark landscape.  

Respite for the seal population, at least until the ice forms.

DREAMING WITH WOLVES

When I was little, I had a recurring nightmare.

We lived in Glasbury-on-Wye’s village hostelry, The Harp Inn, an old stone building with uneven slate roof tiles.  The building had all sorts of nooks and crannies complete with an extensive network of cellars.

I hated that subterranean world. In daylight it was a damp flagstone route to our extensive garden through a doorway that was actually a window with steep steps on either side. No matter the daylight cast by the naked light bulbs in the ceiling beams, dark shadows created a gloom that made the space just plain creepy.

At night it seemed to have a mind of its own, pitch black with periodic drips falling from above.

The dream began with my father asking me, actually imploring me, to go down to the cellar for some item he needed urgently in the bar.  I froze on the spot because I knew there were wolves hiding between the cider crates and beer barrels. I had no choice but to go.  

Stepping from the kitchen scullery with its various buckets containing coal for the fires, scraps for the pigs and compost for the garden I entered the hideous world of the cellar.  Gripping the hollow tubular handrail I began the descent down uneven wooden steps.

With a lump in my throat I reached the paving stones at the foot of the stairs.  Passing the meat locker with its battered netting door and wooden frame, its red paint peeling, I could feel their presence and almost smell their damp fur.  The wolves leaned forward, their piercing eyes, salivating lips and sharp claws ready to snatch me up and carry me away.

And then I would wake up.

Over the years this childish dream has been buried deep in my consciousness but the moment I came face to face with a beautiful grey wolf on the shores of Hudson Bay those memories came flooding back.  But somehow I had been released from the nightmare.  

There was absolutely nothing to be afraid of.

We had been watching the wolf for a while as he stalked his way across the headland hunting for fowl or goose.  Unsuccessful, his attention turned to us as he strode purposefully towards us through the scrub and bushes, now ablaze with the colours of autumn.  Sidestepping the puddles that had formed on the muddy tundra he stopped to survey us with a front leg raised slightly. 

It was a long curious stare ending with a nose raised in the air as if new quarry had revealed itself from the ether.  He looked away as if to investigate the source taking a few steps then quickened his pace away from the gobsmacked audience.


Later we encountered the rest of his pack who had taken up residence on the dirt runway in front of Nanuk Lodge. Safely in the Lodge’s great room we watched a black bear emerge from the undergrowth that skirted the chain link fence between Lodge and the great outdoors.

The bear lumbered across the runway and to our horror the wolves followed.  I must confess to a sinking feeling as to what might have happened next beyond our view. Thankfully, reports later confirmed the wolf pack had moved on and the black bear was back, unscathed.

I decided that wolves may have had a bad rap given my childhood memories because the experience had left me struck by their curiosity, their piercing eyes signalling such a strong sense of knowing and intelligence, and quite possibly a mutual understanding.

WINNERPEG NOT WINTERPEG!

The Museum for Human Rights beyond The Forks

Manitoba’s capital city is full of surprises. 

The Peg’s heart lies at The Forks, an historic site at the intersection of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers. The Forks had its beginnings as an early Aboriginal settlement, the centre of the fur trade and the advent of the railway which facilitated waves of immigration. 

A microbrewery in The Forks

The old warehouses are now converted into shops and restaurants and the atmosphere is vibrant. 

Nearby, the exterior of Canada’s Museum for Human Rights is somewhat confounding and perhaps best described as a vision of mixed metaphors. 

Sixty three firms from twenty one countries submitted bids in one of Canada’s largest ever architectural competitions to build the Museum. Antoine Predock’s unusual design was selected. In 2010 the Museum cornerstone was unveiled by the Queen who had personally selected a stone from Runnymede where the Magna Carta was sealed in 1215. Izzy Asper’s dream of a world class human rights centre for Canada became a reality when the Museum opened its doors in 2014. The Museum’s striking displays and exhibits left me touched and pensive after our morning of exploration.  As I emerged into the daylight I felt a tear in my eye and a desire to get a puppy. 

The Exchange District while a little tired in parts, has a series of streets with well preserved twentieth century architecture, a tribute to the times when Winnipeg was destined to be the “Chicago of the North”.  Construction of the Panama Canal put paid to that dream.

St Boniface Cathedral

St. Boniface, Winnipeg’s French Quarter, lies across the Red River, its ruined cathedral a striking sight.  In the early 1900s a fire destroyed the Cathedral’s roof and the heat blew out what had been an enormous rose stained glass window. What is left of the structure, including an impressive bank of bells, are well preserved with another house of worship built within the Cathedral walls in 1972.  Louis Riel, founder of the Province of Manitoba, lies in St. Boniface Cathedral’s graveyard.

Hermetic Code revelations
enthrall the crowd

The neoclassical Legislative Assembly of Manitoba is a striking building with many interesting architectural features, its secrets unlocked during a quirky Hermetic Code tour that explored its numerological codes and Masonic symbols.
  

Union Station in the foreground.  Fort Garry Hotel beyond.

During our Winnipeg exploration we stayed at the Fort Garry Hotel. Built in 1913 by the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, the hotel is privately owned and well maintained.  Our choice had been a good one.  Friendly staff, good food and a reasonably priced lounge bar that exuded style, the hotel has the additional feature of being one of the most haunted places on the Canadian Prairies.  

While lots of ghostly sightings have been recorded, the epicentre of the hotel’s supernatural happenings are on the second Floor.  One evening I returned to our fifth floor room on my own and felt an icy draught across my shoulders as I walked over to the window.  I found myself checking the large walk in closet while I considered a look under the bed. I gave my head a shake.

Winnipeg's Mint displays the flags of countries
for which it produces coinage

Churchill the Polar Bear on the Toonie

Winnipeg’s Mint produces coins from time to time for 75 countries.  

The assembly line was fascinating from the large steel sheeting coils used to press out coins, to the stamping process and the finished product neatly packed in shipping crates then stored in an enormous vault pending transportation to the customer.  

Coins are shipped in unmarked trucks and other commercial vehicles bearing the livery of grocery stores and the like.  So the next time you are stopped at a traffic light and there’s a dairy truck alongside, it may not actually be transporting milk and butter.The Mint also disposes of coinage taken out of circulation.  The stacked barrels reminded us of a scene from Breaking Bad, but the barrels contained coins, not acid and human remains.

Manitoba's Legislature

A short cruise on the Red and Assiniboine Rivers gave an excellent perspective of the city, particularly the elaborate staircase from the river to the Legislature. We also viewed the high water marks experienced during Winnipeg’s significant flood events.

The Railway Museum at Union Station has some unusual memorabilia, most memorable a poster of a cheque presentation ceremony by Miss Careful Handling.  Stereotypes and perceptions another topic for Palm Lounge discussion.

Our evening ritual always seemed to gravitate to the Palm Lounge in the Fort Garry Hotel where good food and drink was served by pleasant wait staff while a pianist serenaded our recollections of Winnipeg’s secrets, Hermetic Code and Miss Careful Handling among them!

RIDING THE RAILS ON "THE CANADIAN"

Welcome on board!

There’s no question about it, train travel has a romance about it.

Riding the rails is unhurried and part of the attraction is to roll with the stops and starts, the swaying motion and the schedules that literally go out the window.

Having walked the short distance from the Fort Garry Hotel to Winnipeg’s Union Station, we checked in and were ready to board VIA Rail’s Canadian on its continuing journey that had begun in Toronto, passing through Portage La Prairie, Saskatoon, Wainwright, Edmonton, Jasper, Kamloops and finally Vancouver.

Great view from the Prestige Park Car

Cocktails in the Bullet Lounge

We had splashed out on Prestige Class with its art deco Prestige Park car with bar, panorama viewing area up a short flight of stairs and “Bullet Lounge” at the very rear of the train.

Cabin by day

Chocolates on the pillow 

The Prestige Sleeper cabin was spacious with a large window and leather L-shaped couch by day that converted to a double bed by night with adjoining ensuite bathroom and shower.  

A minibar and TV with video selection completed this comfy set up. 

Dining Car

Dinner is served

The restaurant car served a reasonably varied menu with views through large picture windows.

A golf cart whisked us to our assigned cabin at the end of the Union Station’s long platform. 

Two engines and 17 cars, this snake of a train eventually pulled away as heavy freight traffic took priority on the rails. This trend continued throughout the three day, two night journey west to Vancouver. The morning ferry to the Island we had contemplated at the end of the journey turned into a late evening one.

Leaving cowboy country

Despite the delays the journey was really enjoyable and while the transit through the Rockies became one by night in the rain, the journey onwards from Kamloops was spectacular.

A sunny day illuminated the changing landscape as the train wound its way through tunnels, skirting its way alongside the Thompson River and then the Fraser River and its journey through the Fraser Canyon and on to the Lower Mainland.

Above the Thompson River

A very enjoyable way to relax and ponder our earlier adventures with polar bears, wolves and little known Provincial capitals.