HUNG OUT TO DRY IN THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS

Dramatic scenery of the Lofoten Islands

From the remnants of ancient mountains, glacial activity has transformed Norway's Lofoten Islands creating stunning scenery with jagged peaks, deep valleys and picturesque harbours. 

The drama continues in the water with the Maelstrom, the strongest tidal current in the world, coursing between its islands.  

Still above the Artic Circle, the Gulf Stream ensures a temperate climate although as we have discovered on our Norwegian travels, "what will be, will be" is the most reliable weather forecast.

Fishing, farming and tourism are the primary activities on the Islands - with heavy emphasis on the first. Cod is the most abundant fishery and the Islanders claim that Lofoten has the most concentrated cod fishery in the world. Not hard to believe as we passed countless racks of drying cod and cod heads, the aroma pungent and very fishy.

Tor Vegard explains his techniques to an
interested audience

Driving the winding roads and travelling through the undersea tunnels between Vestvagoy, Flakstadoy and Moskenesoy Islands, salmon farming is also prevalent in the bays and inlets.

We enjoyed a stop in the village of Sund and the Blacksmith's shop of Tor Vegard, a genius at creating art from lumps of steel.

The Blacksmith's shop was filled
with his clever creations

Perhaps best known for his beautiful steel cormorants, we were taken with Tor Vegard's seahorses which he created before our very eyes in no time at all. One had to come home with us.  He was kind enough to sign and date the large pebble on which the seahorse was mounted.

Tor Vegard is quite the showman, not just skilled with the forge but a natural at entertaining the crowd gathered to watch him work.

A restored Rorbuer

Travelling on to the next village, we enjoyed the landscapes which were dotted with well kept homes and immaculately tended gardens, the odd house with the trademark Norwegian grass roof.

We noticed many examples of Rorbuers, old fishermen's cabins now restored and turned into accommodation for holidaymakers.

Throughout the day's travels we were struck by the cheerfully painted red and yellow buildings which reflected moodily in the clear green water while seagulls screeched urgently above the drying cod. The serenity of the landscape - and the smell - palpable.
  

Nusfjord waterfront

Overcast skies brightened
by translucent reflections

We stopped for lunch in Nusfjord, Norway’s oldest and best preserved fishing village in the Island group.

With so much cod hanging out to dry it only seemed fitting to tackle some for lunch.  Very tasty too!

Cod hanging out to dry