SAINT SOFIA, VALENTINA’S POINTER AND ANTON’S LEAD FOOT

Peterhof in all its glory

One thing was very clear when we arrived in St Petersburg for a two-day stay - the decision to secure the services of our own driver and guide had been the right one. 

Touring Yusupov Palace, Peterhof, Catherine Palace, Church on the Spilled Blood, Saint Isaac Cathedral, St Peter and Paul Fortress, and of course, the famous Hermitage Museum would require stamina, concentration and flexibility. 

First class on the Hydrofoil

Our redemption came in the form of Sofia, an English speaking guide, and Anton, who didn’t say much at all.  However, he appeared in a brand new Infinity Sedan and drove with great skill and speed. 

It was nice to be dropped off and picked up from the various venues as we watched larger groups trudging to their buses, the trudging becoming visible slower by the end of the second day.

Travels on the St. Petersburg
subway system

Sofia proved her worth early. Not only very knowledgeable, she was adept at avoiding the crowds as far as possible and knowing when to offer a break. 

One excursion took us for a ride on St. Petersburg's subway, famous for its decorative stations and probably some of the steepest and deepest escalators anywhere. Anton met us at a station down the line.

It was still early when we visited a local market where stall owners were setting up their wares for the day. The stalls were colourful and varied but the aroma from the pickled garlic bulbs struck us as being a little strong for that time of day. However the selection of caviar truly was a feast for the eyes.

The Aurora moored across from the old Intourist hotel

Another short drive and we came to the moorage of the Aurora, the ship that fired its gun to mark the beginning of the 1917 Revolution. A building across the river looked a little familiar.

Sofia was amused by the fact I had been to what had been Leningrad in 1973 and while my experiences had been quite different back then, recognizing the Intourist Hotel I had stayed at was fun. No longer a hotel, it looked grey and foreboding and certainly didn’t measure up to the newer spots in town like the Four Seasons, or the Astoria Hotel across from Saint Isaac Cathedral.

Luminaries who have stayed at
the Astoria Hotel

The Astoria’s Winter Garden had been selected by Hitler as the venue for his grand celebration on the breaking of the siege of Leningrad in World War Two - the invitations had even been printed.  But Hitler hadn’t counted on the resolve of the people who suffered terribly through the siege.

Spectacular Yusupov Palace and the family's
connections to Rasputin's demise

The hydrofoil ride out to Peterhof made us realize the vessel could probably have been the very one I had travelled on all those years ago. The hydrofoil fleet looked dated in the extreme but got us to our destination promptly.  

The gardens and fountains of Peterhof are stunning and despite the crowds we enjoyed our visit, particularly the trick fountains which children ran through with loud squeals as the water jets were activated, soaking them in an instant.

Inner courtyard of Catherine Palace

Sophia was engaging and told us lots of interesting stories but the best show of all was when we entered the Diamond Room at the Hermitage and were introduced to Valentina, a Hermitage specialist guide who did not speak a word of English.  

We spent the next hour viewing the most incredible collection of gold, diamonds and a multitude of precious stones set in unusual pieces of jewellery, snuff boxes and regalia. 

St Peter and Paul Fortress, its spires reflecting in the Neva

Valentina wielded a wooden pointer and indicated aspects of the piece we were studying with great flourish, and without cracking a smile.  

Sophia then had to translate and we suspect some aspects were lost in translation but it was entertaining to watch the interaction between the two women. 

On pointing out a pendant that had once belonged to Sir Frances Drake, Valentina tried to explain the origins of the Order of the Garter. Doug stepped in to clarify a few points and then a three way discussion ensued which ended in laughter.

The colourful domes of the Church on the Spilled Blood

By this time Valentina had ceased wielding her pointer.  She held up a pendant she was wearing - a Viking ship.  Now sporting a warm smile she gesticulated that it looked like a leaf when turned upside down. No translation needed here.

Cruising the Neva River and adjoining canals.  The
massive Hermitage complex on the shoreline.

The treasures and history of St Petersburg are mind boggling and it had been an absolute thrill to visit again - including dodging the participants in the annual White Nights Marathon. 

Roads and bridges had been closed for part of the day and this was where Anton had excelled - we sped down roads no visitor to St. Petersburg would ever travel.

The last couple of days had proven a few times that it pays to know the right people!