WICKS FROM THE WICK

Wickaninnish Inn at low tide

Tofino’s Wickaninnish Inn describes itself as “rustic elegance on nature’s edge”. We couldn’t wait to experience it for ourselves.  Crashing surf and all - it was storm watching season.

The three hour drive between Nanaimo and Tofino has its heart stopping moments, particularly in November when there is black ice aplenty and the occasional dusting of snow.  

The drive is scenic but its snow tires on the car and a firm hand on the wheel as the summit on the mountainous road approaches. Cell phone coverage drops off about 20 kilometres past Port Alberni and one is all alone for about an hour until it returns. The road narrows as it twists and turns its way back to sea level and the real west coast  - the Pacific Rim.  

The next land mass across that enormous expanse of water - Japan!

A little cheese and wine welcomes

The drive through the Pacific Rim National Park presents all manner of beach access and the views and sounds are glorious.  



Along the side of the road Tsunami warning signs and evacuation routes are posted providing some grounding as to the vulnerability of this beautiful place.

Sunset on Chesterman Beach

And then “The Wick“ as it its affectionately known and its beautiful location on Chesterman Beach.  

The welcome we received from the moment we checked in was warm and friendly, the accommodation comfortable and the food offerings imaginative and delicious.  But all this was trumped by the view.  

The crashing surf is simply mesmerising and we have to confess to sleeping with our patio door wide open.

Doug examining "the rock"

As for “wicks from the Wick” well there is an enterprising artist who has taken pieces of rock and stone from the beach and crafted them into tea candle holders and vases.  They are lovely but I did find myself wondering if I had gone completely mad by actually purchasing a rock that holds a candle. 

The jury is out on that one. 

Perhaps fortunately, there were no vases to be had.

One last glimpse from our balcony

The locals call the road link between Tofino and Port Alberni “the road” and the summit “the pass”.  When they have to make the drive its known as “heading out”.  

When we “headed out” for our homeward journey the weather had reverted from unseasonably cold to predictable.  A Pacific storm had reached landfall and the rain lashed down in torrents.  Waterfalls tumbled noisily down the rock face and with nowhere to go swept across the road surface.  At times it seemed as though we were floating. 

Before long cell phone coverage had been restored and the roads had widened.  Back in more familiar territory and on our way home after a few days of pure magic, along of course with a couple of essential rocks.