STORMY SAGAS FROM SMOKEY BAY

The dreamy couple sitting at the bar were well into the cocktails by the time our Gull beer had arrived.  From what we could tell Slushy Postman, Arabian Horse and Digital Love were well gone and Wicked Games was now being enthusiastically concocted in a gleaming cocktail shaker by the exceedingly polished barman.  As the pink elixir slid into the frosted cocktail glasses we wondered what the occasion was as the couple sat staring in anticipation.

Hallgrimskirkja

The overnight flight from Vancouver to Reykjavík passed quickly, the sunrise over Greenland spectacular.  As an orange glow spread over the puffy cloud cover, ice crystals formed on the aircraft windows.  Descending through the surreal white landscape the significance of Loftslag - Icelandic for “climate” - hit home.  The next few days Loftslag would be top of mind as rain, wind, sleet, hail, snow and oh yes sunshine, accompanied us on our latest travel expedition.

Keflavik Airport is a 50 minute car ride from the Iceland capital and the drive across the volcanic landscape was a stark reminder that we had come to a very unique place.  Reykjavik’s name is derived from old Norse and literally means “Bay of Smoke” presumably for the steamy vapors rising from the land mass.

Old Reykjavik

Jet lagged, but keen, we left our lovely old marina based hotel to explore Reykjavik and its dominating Lutheran church Hallgrimskirkja housing a vast 5275 pipe organ.  A short ride in the elevator to the clock tower afforded the ideal vantage point to view the brightly coloured buildings of the old town below.

A famous Icelandic son faces Hallgrimskirkja. An impressive statue of the Norse explorer Leif Eriksson looks west to the ocean and his discovery of continental North America.  A son of Erik the Red, Eriksson established a camp in Vinland, modern day Newfoundland, with L’Anse Aux Meadows on its northern tip serving as a ship repair station.

The HARPA concert hall and cultural centre is an attractive modern building made up of panels of glittering glass.  Located on the waterfront, its name the winner from a local competition.  HARPA is an old Icelandic word that refers to the time of the year and is in fact a month in the Nordic calendar.  The name also refers to the facility’s activities, a meeting place.  John Cleese was performing that night to a full house.

Meeting of the North American and Eurasian Tectonic Plates

The next day involved a snowy start to a day touring the much travelled Golden Circle route through the Pingvellir National Park.   A day of highlights, not limited to the dramatic weather, included the Gullfoss waterfall, the Haukadalur geothermal area and the Fontana mineral pools.

Gullfoss Waterfall

Pingvellir lies in a rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid Atlantic Ridge and the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.  To its south lies the largest natural lake in Iceland.  The scenery was breathtaking as thundering hail gave way to bright sunshine.  And an opportunity to retake all those photos.

Gullfoss waterfall tumbles dramatically as the Hvita river rushes south making a sharp right turn into a staircase of sorts.  The water roars into a steep canyon which gives the impression the river has disappeared.  To obtain the best appreciation for this watery spectacle you have to get up close.  You will get wet but it was worth it to experience the eerie roar that blasted out everything else.

Strokkur Geyser explodes

Geysir in the Haukadalur Valley provides a spectacle of periodic eruptions from the Strokkur Geyser which sends up violent plumes of water unannounced.  It’s a good thing to have wet weather gear for self and electrical equipment.

Stocky Icelandic Horse

In between these awe inspiring sights, we petted Icelandic horses and visited a dairy farm that produces its own brand of rich ice cream.  The ice cream was possibly outdone by the performance of the farm’s resident dogs that chased things around the farmyard on command, a small piece of wood on this occasion.  The black lab refused to share the prize, choosing to chew away at its well worn edges while his compatriots looked on hopefully.

Soothing Hot Springs

A final stop at Laugarvatn Hot Springs for a soak in the Fontana geothermal pools.   Our stay included a demonstration of rye bread baked over a 24 hour period in the bubbling mud.  The yeast free bread was dense and delicious especially with the heapings of Icelandic butter on top.  The Fontana facility is modern and the pools offer soaks at various temperatures in the natural springs.

Back in Reykjavik we retired to the hotel bar for a light supper.  

The evening, while enjoyable, lacked a little of the previous evening’s entertainment.  The dreamy couple were long gone, perhaps still nursing the mother of all hangovers.