THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS, BUT VISITORS NEED TO

Sailing into New York
past Lower Manhattan

The Statue of Liberty - an
interesting vantage point

New York City is one of those places that never ceases to amaze. Despite the aging infrastructure of its subways and sidewalks, the city's beating heart pounds subliminally like a drumbeat in one's consciousness. Whether its a Broadway show, a walking tour around Brooklyn Heights and DUMBO, appreciating masterpieces like Van Gogh's "Starry Night" or paying respects at the 9/11 Memorial, there is so much to see and experience, as long as the body is willing. But planning one’s time well is critical. There isn’t a moment to be lost experiencing this pulsating place.

Coming into the Manhattan Cruise Ship Terminal. 
Hudson Yards and the Empire State Building on the skyline

We had reached the end of a cruise that had begun in Peru several weeks earlier and had planned an extended stay in the final port of call, New York City. The sail into the harbour was picture perfect as we passed the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, the focus of a previous visit several years before.

Enjoying the High Line

Once docked, our first expedition was a vigorous walk to Times Square to check out our hotel's location.  

Spring has just about sprung
on the High Line

Next stop after a short subway ride, the High Line. Originally an abandoned elevated railway, the area now encompasses an attractive walkway of gardens and seating set among the rusting railroad tracks above street level.

At one end the Chelsea Market, a serious assortment of shops and eateries in the former Nabisco warehouse, a lovely old brick building. At the other end, Hudson Yards, composed of the most expensive real estate in North America, and still growing. In the midst of its towers of glass and steel, a bizarre bronze structure titled “the Vessel” rests, providing amazing views from its peak over the Hudson River and beyond.  And not that far from where Captain Sully famously landed his aircraft in the water after that near fatal bird strike.

A 30 minute ride from point to point

One of New York City’s best kept secrets is the Staten Island Ferry, a free service from the tip of Manhattan to the City’s smallest borough, Staten Island. The service is efficient, the views of the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and Lower Manhattan free.

Installed in our Times Square hotel, the following day’s activities were certainly ones of remembrance. It began overlooking the memorial pools of the fallen World Trade towers. It’s hard to describe the reaction one feels. The site is somber, sad and moving. Almost 3,000 names of those lost in the 11 September 2001 North and South towers, the passengers of the four downed aircraft, and the victims of the 1993 World Trade Centre parkade car bombing line the perimeter walls of each commemorative pool. Most poignantly, a rose is placed alongside the name of each victim on their birthday.

Taking in the views over
lower Manhattan and Brooklyn

Three floors form the viewing area
starting at the 100th floor

The post 9/11 Freedom Tower built to a height of 1776 feet to mark the date of the Declaration of Independence looks down imposingly over the tranquility of the commemorative pools that fill the footprints of the former twin towers. Now known as One World Trade Centre, a supersonic elevator ride whisks one a 100 floors in no time. The views over the city really are spectacular and we were lucky to have a clear day.

The slurry wall that holds back the Hudson River and the
final girder salvaged from the wreckage of the fallen towers

However the 9/11 Memorial Museum is an experience not to be missed. Situated underground on the footprint of both towers, the displays include all manner of memorabilia as well as equipment salvaged from the site. A crushed fire engine, a mangled elevator motor, part of the twisted antennae from the tip of the North Tower and part of a pulverized staircase down which many had managed to escape. 

Perhaps most striking, the slurry wall built as part of the original North Tower construction in order to contain the Hudson River. Had this wall failed during the 9/11 attacks, the entire subway system would have been flooded. A small victory of sorts: 17,000 people were working in those buildings that fateful day. Sadly 40% of the families that lost a family member still have no body, no visible proof of what happened to their loved ones. The DNA work continues in an area adjoining the Museum. And then you realize the aluminum coloured walls on one side of this subterranean world are the containment walls for the memorial pools at street level. Altogether an astonishing experience of sadness, hope and remembrance.

That evening the final piece of 9/11 remembrance. Gander, Newfoundland and all those diverted aircraft. The Broadway production of “Come from Away”. The stirring, heartfelt performance had the packed house on its feet.

An energizing walk over the Brooklyn Bridge

Manhattan from Brooklyn Heights

The next morning was clear and sunny and perfect for a morning
walking tour over the Brooklyn Bridge to Brooklyn Heights and DUMBO (down under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). 

Our guide, a native Brooklynite regaled us with stories of the superiority of Brooklyn over Manhattan, discussed the bridge’s interesting construction history, pointed out landmarks on a 360 degree scale and explained the architectural make up of the attractive Brooklyn Heights community. The ambiance couldn’t have been in greater contrast to the hustle and bustle of Manhattan. The calmness was palpable with residents walking their dogs, enjoying coffee in sidewalk cafes and chatting on street corners.

Down at DUMBO the atmosphere was almost festive with restaurant patrons spilling out onto the street. The pizza vendors here have earned their reputation for thin crust pizza however it is apparently a serious transgression to request pineapple in any form on one’s pizza.

An express subway ride took us from Brooklyn up to Central Park and the spectacular Metropolitan Museum of Art. The building itself is extremely imposing with an eclectic and incredibly impressive collection. We were there for the European painters but sadly an attendant told us that while the Museum had a series of Van Gogh paintings, Starry Night was not among them. We were in the right city but at the wrong Museum!

After a planning meeting later that evening over Harp lager in an Irish pub off Times Square we devised a plan. We were flying home the next day but had a small window to get to the Museum of Modern Art where Starry Night was on display.  The walk uptown the next morning was well worth the last minute effort.

Starry Night by Vincent Van Gogh

Olive Trees by Vincent Van Gogh

Starry Night is alive with colour and texture, and interestingly, while it was the subject of a view from the asylum that Van Gogh had retreated to, also on display is one of his many paintings of the trees in the olive garden viewed through another window. The blending of blues, greens and cream quite breathtaking. We were amazed that we had been permitted to get so close to such expensive real estate. Starry Night is valued in excess of $100 Million!

We had been on the move the entire time of our New York City stay. No shortage of things to see and experience in the city that never sleeps.