IN THE PRESENCE OF ANCIENT GIANTS

Saglek Fjord forms the southern gateway to the Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve.  Established in 2005 the Park covers 10,000 square kilometers and is bordered by Quebec to the west and the Labrador coast to the east. Home to Canada’s highest mountains east of the Rockies the scenery is breathtaking. The Inuktitut word “Torngat” means place of spirits.  

The mountains have been home to the Inuit and their predecessors for more than 7500 years.  Polar bears hunt seal along the coast and caribou herds roam to and from their calving grounds.

We awoke early and shot out of bed when we saw what was facing us through the cabin window.  Immense rock walls rose from the fjord, the bright sunshine enhancing the brown, rust, grey, green and cream mottled rock.  It was stunningly beautiful and unlike any scenery we have ever experienced. While the sun was shining the wind blew in strong gusts whipping up the aquamarine fjord water. This made for an eventful zodiac ride from the ship to the head of the fjord with spray washing over us unexpectedly.  Camera safely protected in its fifty cent camera bag (a Ziploc bag is very effective in these circumstances) we weathered the bumps and spray holding tightly onto the zodiac’s rope rail.

The Inuit Parks Canada guides were on shore to greet us.  Their leader, Andrew, had given a “bear briefing” on board earlier, emphasizing that visitors treat the Park respectfully and adhere to polar bear safety rules.  As we clambered on to the rocky beach several campfires were burning in preparation for freshly cooked bannock which a young woman was preparing.  The second campfire was ready for the yet to be caught arctic char.  Arctic char are prolific in the fjord and there was no concern that we wouldn’t be enjoying sushi and cooked salmon before long.  The sushi version was awaiting us after our hike, set out on a colourful flat rock that could have been sourced from Williams Sonoma had it not been the real thing.

Andrew, along with his three year old son perched around his neck, led the hike while his brother Herman acted as sentinel for the group, his bear deterrents at the ready with the deterrent of last resort, a loaded shotgun slung over his shoulders. Our destination, a cascading waterfall that spewed crystal clear water over smooth boulders weathered over time by the force of the water. 

We paused to take in the views around us.

As far as the eye could see mountains soared to the sky and not another soul present except for our privileged group of hikers. Andrew pointed out various Inukshuk, a structure of rough stones stacked in various shapes traditionally used by Inuit hunters as a landmark. He smiled when asked about the Inukshuk popularized during the Vancouver Winter Olympics telling us that outstretched “arms” generally meant a marker for someone who had passed away.  He did acknowledge however that the Inukshuk these days has taken on a different meaning, one of hope and friendship.

Returning to the beach we bade farewell to our new friends and spent the next while zodiac cruising the fjord while the Captain repositioned the ship.  The wind was still causing some concern as angry waves coursed through the inlet.

Back on board we enjoyed the remainder of the day slowly sailing the length of the fjord in search of wildlife.  Black bears spotted but no polar bears.  Leaving the fjord we were now making our way to Nachvak Fjord.  Not to be outdone by an already spectacular day, an enormous iceberg appeared on the horizon gleaming in the setting sun.  True to form our Captain took to the controls on one of the bridge wings to slow the vessel down to a crawl as we circled this massive monolith.   Sunlight cast stunning shadows and filtered light over the ice reflecting the ship’s image onto the ice face.

Shortly before 6 a.m. the next morning we raced up on deck.  We were anchored deep in Nachvak Fjord, a deep and narrow finger of water that stretches twenty kilometers inland.  The lighting was a photographer’s dream as the massive rocky walls created mirror images of themselves in the glassy water.

Yesterday’s wind had had its benefits.  No mosquitoes!  But just to underscore the fact that explorers should embrace the unexpected, our zodiac cruise started off well until the winds reappeared making it a rocky ride.  We did however get a good sighting of polar bears – or should I say a “Papa Bravo” as per the radio chatter between zodiac drivers.  A mother and two cubs had been spotted high on the rocky shore.  It never gets tired watching these magnificent creatures but we were starting to feel the cold.  

And then the bar staff came to the rescue – they had launched their own zodiac complete with pots of hot chocolate laced with Baileys. They did a roaring trade as we surfed the waves back to Resolute.