NORTH OF 66 TO THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN

Cuddle up!

Tromso has been the starting point for many a polar expedition, its moniker as “Gateway to the Arctic” well earned. Located inside the Arctic Circle at a latitude of 70 degrees north we arrived on 11 June - well and truly in the land of the midnight sun - the middle of the night as bright as midday.

Here's licking at you

Can I come home with you?

We began our explorations with a drive to Kvaloya Island to visit Tove Sorensen’s Husky Wilderness Camp.











Tove is a well known dog sled racer having competed in the Finnmarkslopet, the world’s northernmost and Europe’s longest sled dog race.  She has also competed in Alaska’s Iditarod race and we watched an interesting film showing the dogs’ journey from Norway to Alaska.  We patted and played with some of her 300 dogs, cuddled puppies and stroked new borns whose eyes had barely opened.

Returning back to town we visited Tromso’s Polar Museum. Testament to Norway’s heritage, the Museum is full of interesting hunting, trapping and exploration displays - and in particular the achievements of the great Norwegian explorers Amundsen and Nansen.

Tromso's Arctic Cathedral

Leaving the Museum, we walked across the bridge from the main part of town to take a look at the unusual Arctic Cathedral located on the mainland.  Constructed of concrete, steel and glass, the Cathedral’s interior is illuminated by indirect light and three crystal chandeliers designed to resemble ice formations.  One is drawn to a striking stained glass window which occupies the entire east wall behind the altar.

Glorious day atop Mount Storsteinen - Ocean Princess
at dock in the harbour below

The day was clear and sunny so a ride on the cable car to the top of Mount Storsteinen was a must.  We were rewarded with a glorious view over the Tromso area, its islands, waterways and snow capped mountains. 

We had walked a long way and a ride back to town on the city bus was very appealing.  Now sensitized to Norway's high cost of living we didn’t flinch at the $9 per person bus fare. Rather, our feet gave grateful thanks.

Sailing away from Tromso that evening our heading took us northwest across the Norwegian Sea with our next destination in two days at 80 degrees latitude in the Svalbard Archipelago at Spitsbergen.

Wolfgang fits us up in Chef's jackets for our dining extravaganza

Our Head waiter flanked by the Maitre D' and
Executive Chef (no pressure) serving the
Strawberry Cracked Black Pepper Sherbet 

Our adventures continued that evening when we participated in the Chef’s Table, an evening of fine dining with wine pairings and the opportunity to talk food with the Executive Chef and the Maitre D.  The evening began in the Galley where dinner service was in full swing.  

Dressed in white Chef coats, we watched the proceedings while we enjoyed Hors d’oeuvres comprising a Ginger & Red Chilli Tuna Cocktail, Foie Gras, Mini Quiche and Orange Bacardi Lobster Panko - served with perfectly chilled French Champagne. 

Leaving the Galley we moved on to the steakhouse restaurant where a special table had been set for our group of ten.  Alongside another table was ready for the Executive Chef and his colleagues where the finishing touches were put to the remaining courses, the first of which was Asparagus Risotto with Langoustine & Lobster Claws. This was followed by Strawberry Cracked Black Pepper Sherbet topped with Grey Goose Vodka. 

Executive Chef Erik applying the port wine
reduction to the Baked Camembert Cheese

The main course was a combination of Prawns, Roast Veal Chop & Beef Tenderloin served with Green Peppercorn Sauce, followed by Baked Camembert Cheese in Port Wine Reduction.  For dessert a Drambuie Parfait with a Raspberry Heart.  

This sumptuous meal was accompanied by a French Chablis, a California Merlot and a Chilean late vintage Sauvignon Blanc. 

Certainly another day to remember, hard to beat!

GATEWAY TO THE FIORDS

A toast for the journey to come

A happy sailaway from Dover and a sea day to get used to our new digs on board.  We were on our way to Norway!

 Bergen waterfront

We awoke to a clear, sunny morning as we sailed into Bergen, Norway’s second city.  The colourful buildings reflected brightly in the water which positively sparkled. 

Atop Mount Floien

The funicular ride to the top of Mount Floien provided scenic views over the city, its harbour, old town and waterways.  

Enormous fishing boats and oil supply ships moored in the harbour - some with their own helicopter pads - testament to Norway’s vibrant economy.

The old town of Bryggen is composed of colourful wooden buildings.  

Some leaned lazily to one side, others had steep upper floors with block and tackle dangling over the narrow walkways.

The atmosphere at the Torget fish market on the waterfront was lively.

Colourful displays of fish that looked fresh and immaculately prepared, from black whale meat to more familiar fare.  Some vendors were preparing cooked dishes.  The aroma that came from these oversized pans spewing steam, garlic and spices was tantalizing - as was the advertised price for the finished product.  As a visitor it doesn’t take long to be struck by the sticker shock of Norway’s high cost of living. 

Moody Reflections

Turning north the next day we entered Geirangerfjord, one of Norway’s most spectacular fiords.  The weather gods were still smiling on us as we disembarked in Hellesylt in the early morning sun light.  

We spent the day touring through beautiful valleys framed with snow capped peaks and glacial waterfalls that tumbled hundreds of feet into rivers and streams on the valley floor. 

Abandoned cottages in alpine meadows

Alpine meadows swept up the mountainside, some dotted with summer cabins used at one time by farmers who took their stock to the meadows for summer grazing.  

Many cabins are abandoned these days, but the tumbledown structures with their grass rooftops, some with wildflowers in full bloom, were picturesque and charming.  

Passing through the town of Stryn we stopped for coffee and home made pancakes.

Imposing Lake Djupvasshytta

Later in the day we began the zig zag drive to the top of Mount Dalsnibba for a breathtaking view over the end of Geirangerfjord.  Passing Lake Djupvasshytta, still partially covered in ice, the surrounding mountainside was thick with snow.  

The odd stalwart skier had left tracks in the snow but the spring melt was underway. 

The ice on the Lake’s surface reflected the sunlight menacingly and for a moment it seemed as if it could be the hidden den of a James Bond nemesis, the ice perhaps really a sheet of steel that could retract in minutes to reveal the evil villain’s arsenal of missiles ready to wreak havoc on the free world....... Perhaps not.

The view from Mount Dalsnibba

The road wound its way uphill providing better and better views until we finally reached the summit. 

It felt as though we were on top of the world. The view was magical.

We continued our journey down into the valley towards one final viewpoint at the rocky outcrop of Flydalsjuvet.  Our descent from the mountains into the valley continued until we reached the small town of Geiranger where we reboarded the ship.  

Sailaway from Geiranger

The sailway that evening was picture perfect, the deep fiord now emerald green with waterfalls thundering down on either side of us.

The past two days had been like no other.

Picture perfect.

THE THREE AMIGOS

Pearl, Salt and Pepper - The Three Amigos 

One of the threesome 

Pearl, Salt and Pepper had tired themselves out scratching amongst the lavender, retreating to the front door step where they lay peacefully together unconcerned by our arrival.

We were tired after the overnight flight and the drive down to Kent from Heathrow.

The motorway had been awash with trucking from every corner of the EU, coming and going to the Port of Dover. 

We eventually left the motorway driving north of Dover to the Alkham Valley.  The contrast was striking, vehicle mayhem replaced by verdant tranquility.  Birds sang, hedgerows fresh with new growth spilled over onto winding roads and cows grazed laconically in the fields.

The scene was almost perfect as we consulted our directions to the farmhouse:  the problem was that the abundant greenery had all but obliterated the road signs.  

Meggatt Lane lay under an emerald canopy

We found Meggatt Lane in the end and it didn't disappoint!  The Lane wound its way past well kept cottages and farms up the hillside through a canopy of trees that practically shut out the sunlight.  The odd filtered ray of sun managed to peep through the branches and foliage.  It reminded us that there is no place on earth quite like the English countryside.

Our Farmhouse hosts Wendy and Neil gave us a warm welcome, including the chickens who we dubbed “The Three Amigos”.  Unperturbed by the interruption they arose slowly from their resting place on the doormat and clucked their way back to the flower beds. 

View from the farmhouse over the Alkham Valley

From our vantage point in the garden we had a spectacular view out over the Alkham Valley.  Horses and sheep stopped chewing briefly to consider the new arrivals and then returned to the grass.  The hen coups were empty as the chicken community went about their business - the Three Amigos were the pets, the remainder the serious egg layers. 

The next morning a fox patrolled the garden but luckily the chickens were secure in their coups.  Oscar the cat sauntered by, peeking into our bedroom.  Tilly the black Lab bounded towards us looking for a pat and a stroke.  During the night we could hear owls hooting and doves cooing, those glorious sounds replaced temporarily by the noise of the paperboy who seemed to deliver the morning news in the middle of the night.

Wendy’s “Full Englishes” - a generous breakfast of egg, bacon, sausages, tomatoes, mushrooms and fried bread, sourced locally and produced organically, were sensational and fuelled us for the day’s activities.

Canterbury Cathedral - poster child for Pillars of the Earth

One jaunt during our stay took us to Canterbury and its iconic Cathedral, and while perhaps not as impressive from the exterior as some of its counterparts in other parts of England, the Cathedral's interior bowled us over. The columns, ceilings and windows were absolutely breathtaking.

A volunteer guide gave an interesting tour that focused on historical anecdotes, underscoring the importance of the Cathedral and its place in English history.

A stroll along the White Cliffs of Dover

That afternoon we returned to Dover and walked the White Cliffs, the French coast clear across the English Channel.

During our walk we noticed an abundance of wild cabbage and the rabbit community which was flourishing.

A rabbit totally unbothered by us

Before reaching the lighthouse we came across a steep cut into the limestone cliffs - apparently manmade to retrieve a cargo of valuable grand pianos caught in a shipwreck in the 1800s. 

The next day we drove the narrow country lanes past Oast houses and country cottages, many of which were adorned with impressive climbing roses in full bloom. Visiting the country town of Tenterton and the medieval enclave of Rye we returned over the Romney Marshes along the coast road. 

The chocolate box town of Rye

Travelling through Folkestone we continued on to the turnoff for Sanphire Hoe - the resting place for the excavation materials from the Channel Tunnel‘s construction.

The Euro Tunnel organization has done a great job of transforming the site into grasslands with walkways along the foreshore. It’s also a popular spot for fishers, although the fish were not biting today.  One fisher complained that the sea was just too rough.

Enjoying a "99" on Sanphire Hoe

Beyond Sanphire Hoe, the Port of Dover gleamed in the sunshine, the White Cliffs of Dover living up to their reputation, the limestone looking particularly milky white.

The next day we would board the Ocean Princess for our journey up the Norwegian coast and over the Arctic Circle to the Land of the Midnight Sun.

THE DROP BEAR DIARIES - CHAPTER 13 "A LITTLE PIECE OF PARADISE"

As we drove from Canberra into the outskirts of Sydney, we thought back to our arrival in Australia several weeks earlier and the few days we had spent in Sydney before heading to Western Australia and later joining Roger and Julie in Melbourne for the trip over to Tasmania.

View over Circular Quay from
our hotel room

Sunset over the 
Sydney Harbour Bridge

We had stayed near the Circular Quay in a hotel overlooking the Opera House, Darling Harbour and the Coathanger, better known as Sydney Harbour Bridge.  

On our first jet lagged day we explored Macquarie Street and its stylish sandstone buildings.

Double take on Macquarie Street:  
The bronze boar has an identical twin 
in Victoria's Butchart Gardens

View from Mrs. Macquarie's Chair
in the Botanical Gardens

However, our sights were firmly set on Watsons Bay, just a 20 minute ferry ride from the Circular Quay but it could have been a million miles away from Sydney’s busy CBD.   

Stepping ashore in Watsons Bay, the atmosphere was relaxed.  

We strolled past quaint wood framed houses dodging a neat row of upturned rowboats lining the shore. 

Upturned rowboats in Watsons Bay

Fish and Chips on the Waterfront

South Head walk - Camp Cove
in the background

Casual restaurants clustered around the dock were doing a brisk trade.

Watsons Bay lies on the edge of the South Head peninsula where the Tasman Sea meets Sydney harbour. A former fishing village, Watsons Bay has a park like setting, its community composed of eclectic heritage homes and upscale beachfront residences. 

Views from the South Head

Waterfront is always nearby, and a walk along nearby Camp Cove - a particularly beautiful spot - leads to the South Head trail, past Lady Bay (a legal nudist beach), HMAS Watson, a maritime training station and Hornby lighthouse.  

Views in all directions are terrific, whether it’s the cluster of CBD skyscrapers, the Harbour Bridge, Manly over on the North Head or the open ocean.
  

Fabulous outlook from "Icebergs" on Bondi Beach

On our return to Watsons Bay from Canberra we were greeted by the enthusiastic welcoming committee - Maurice and Mary.

Unpacking the carefully packed car it was fortunate that some of the supplies we had purchased along the way were still intact. 

Our gracious hosts

WARNING
If Australia happens to be 
your next holiday 
destination remember to 
"Look up and Live!"

The next few days were glorious - walks with the dogs around the South Head, an afternoon at Icebergs in Bondi Beach, a tour of the Northern Beaches that included another fun visit with friends and messing up Julie‘s kitchen with impromptu cookups. Doug is still in shock that he actually barbecued for Australians!  

But our holiday had come to an end and it was time to return home. Sincere thanks to Roger and Julie, their pups, family and friends for making our stay in Australia so thoroughly enjoyable. And an honourable mention to Karen for a job well done.

As for those Drop Bears, well we consider ourselves fortunate that Eucalyptus trees are in short supply in Canada.

THE DROP BEAR DIARIES - CHAPTER 12 "YES, MINISTER - CANBERRA, A CAPITAL IDEA"

“Yes Minister” was a satirical British comedy featuring the hapless Right Honourable Jim Hacker and his permanent secretary Sir Humphrey Appleby.  Much of the show’s humour resulted from the antagonism between the cabinet minister (who believed he was in charge) and the civil servant (who actually ran the country).

The view over Canberra from Mount Ainslie

Rumour has it that Canberrans believe “Yes Minister” is a documentary.  A little unkind.  

Whilst Canberra’s streets were awash with lanyard-sporting bureaucrats, we found the Nation’s capital to be attractive and intriguing with its geometric wheel & spoke road system designed by Walter Burley Griffin. 

Parliament House from the
War Memorial

Probably best viewed from Mount Ainslie, Lake Burley Griffin dissects the road system and complements Canberra’s inner city planning. Canberra is green, leafy with a comfortable feel whether it’s a stroll down suburban streets or a drive along Embassy row.

Touring the War Memorial

The iconic Australian War Memorial lies at the foot of Mount Ainslie and is so well done - not only serving as a memorial to Australia's fallen but as a Museum and place of learning, the throngs of school children testament to that. 

Old Parliament House

The view from the Memorial to the far end of Commonwealth Avenue is striking, with both the old and new Parliament Houses standing in complete contrast to the another, it appears as though the two buildings are one. 

And behind it, Parliament House

Old Parliament House, now a museum, an attractive classical white building opened in 1927 and now provides a fantastic representation of Australia’s political history.  

A visit to the (new) Parliament House, a modern, stylish (and mostly underground) building with its oversized spire of stylized boomerangs and flagpole, provides a hands on opportunity to see how Australia's Government does its business. 
  

View towards Mount Ainslie from
Parliament House

Doug entrusted with the drive
from Canberra to Sydney

There’s lots to do in Canberra - the National Gallery of Australia another enjoyable stop - and the next time an Australian tells us there’s nothing much to do in Canberra, we’ll be happy to put them right.  

Obviously they’ve never been there or truly believe the “Yes Minister” representation.

All this and fun visits with Roger and Julie’s family - Canberra had been a terrific stop.

As far as our research reveals, no Drop Bears have ever aspired to a career in public office, however many Embassies have had to install comprehensive netting around their premises to prevent Drop Bear attacks on foreign dignitaries.  

THE DROP BEAR DIARIES - CHAPTER 11 "POETIC HEROES AND WILD BRUMBIES"

"Man from Snowy River" country

The storm had finally moved on with sunshine colouring the beautiful landscape as we drove the road to Corryong. 

Corryong’s claim to fame is as the final resting place of Jack Riley, “The Man from Snowy River”. 

The poem of the same name was penned in 1890 by Banjo Paterson. 

It immortalizes the horseback pursuit to capture the colt of a prizewinning racehorse that had escaped from its paddock, drawn to the mountain’s wild horses, better known as Brumbies.  During the chase the Brumbies charge down an impossibly steep slope and the pursuing riders give up the chase except for our hero Jack Riley who continues the pursuit, successfully turning the horses.

Our scenic drive through the Snowys

This well-known poem is commemorated on the Australian $10 bill and also became a Hollywood rendition.

Wild Brumbies were to feature later in the day after the scenic, winding drive through the Snowy Mountains and a stop at Murray One, one of seven powerhouses and sixteen dams that make up the Snowy Mountain Scheme, an incredible complex that took 25 years to build. 

Set in dramatic scenery, the project was designed to provide farm irrigation, household water and hydroelectric power.  Amazingly only 2% of the entire construction is visible above ground.

Murray One Powerhouse

The Australian Alps and Murray River

Sadly, the Snowy Mountains’ highest peak - Mount Kosciuszko - was shrouded in cloud.  We were in no position to argue Roger’s claim that “Kossy” rivals anything in the Canadian Rockies, although facts are facts Roger.  We’ll gladly trade a peak or two for a couple of glorious Aussie beaches though.

The mountain highway took us through the Snowy Mountains ski resorts, notably Thredbo. Before long we found ourselves in a beautiful valley and the most unlikely stop - The Wild Brumby Schnapps Distillery and its magnificent lunch time offerings of German sausage and sauerkraut.  

Lunch at Wild Brumby

After a hearty lunch, it was time for Schnapps tasting.  

From Devil’s Tongue (chillies, herbs and apples) to Sour Apple (Granny Smith apples and pickled lemons) to Butterscotch (caramelized apples) the experience was a positive blast of flavour. 

The tasting table

The selection on offer

We really enjoyed the warm and welcoming atmosphere of Wild Brumby, but that could have had something to do with the Schnapps.

While Banjo Paterson is famous in Australia for his poem "The Man from Snowy River",  it isn't widely known that he also wrote "The Drover and the Drop Bear".