PASSAGE THROUGH PASSAU

Sailing into Passau, Vest Oberhaus on the hillside

Passau lies on the border between Austria and Germany. A pretty peninsula of land located in Lower Bavaria on the confluence of three rivers - the Inn, the Ilz and the Danube. 

Over the centuries the rivers brought wealth to Passau making it an important trading centre, especially for salt, the medieval world’s most precious commodity.  A city on the salt route could charge tolls and wealth ensued.  Attractive to the Catholic Church for its strategic location, Passau also evolved into the largest bishopric in the Holy Roman Empire.

Joining the other riverboats on the Passau waterfront

Strolling the narrow cobbled streets of Passau two features dominate the landscape.  The first is Vest Oberhaus, an expansive 13^th century fortress towering above the Danube and Ilz rivers. 

The second, St. Stephen’s Cathedral built in 1668 and the last of a number of churches built of wood that was not destroyed by fire. The interior is filled with elaborate white ornamentation and Italian frescos.  An immense pipe organ with over 17,000 pipes dominates the gallery.

Magnificent pipe organ in St. Stephen's

Passau's history of flooding

Passau has survived endless floods over the years but several fires burned the city to its foundations.  

After the last fire the Bishop enlisted some of the great architects of Florence and Rome to rebuild the city and it was during that 17^th century period that “the Venice of Bavaria” was born. Like Venice, Passau is prone to flooding - some of the high water level marks bring home the reality of living on a flood plain. But the locals seem to take it in stride.

MS Treasures, our home away from home

The sail away was extremely civilized. The bar ran out of beer glasses as more and more of our fellow passengers toasted the sunny afternoon with Bavarian beer.  

As we transited the next lock, conversation turned to Australia’s chances against Wales in the next World Cup rugby game, the futility of the U.S. political system, the possibility of ever convincing the U.S. on the merits of cricket, and life in general.  

Water fills another lock in our journey

And the lock gates open

Another mellow day on the Danube.

Unfortunately, the water levels drama had reared its ugly head again. There were now four senior officers on board to navigate MS Treasures on the next leg. We were advised that we may feel some movement during the night as the ship would be churning up sediment.  

Possibly it was time for another Bavarian ale. 

THE TRANQUILITY OF THE WACHAU VALLEY

Views over Durnstein from Richard the Lionheart's prison

The Danube winds its way laconically through the Wachau Valley, designated a World Heritage Cultural site by UNESCO in 2000 because “the architecture, settlements and agriculture vividly illustrate a medieval landscape that has evolved organically and harmoniously over time“.  

We couldn’t have put it better, the area is very easy on the eyes and high on the soothing scale.

Fall colours of yellow and orange reflected in the Danube’s fast moving deep green waters.  The “blue” Danube has its source in the Black Forest and flows into the Black Sea 1800 miles later passing through ten countries and four capital cities. 

A grand river indeed but the primary concern on board MS Treasures was the Danube’s rapidly declining water levels and our ability to reach the Main Danube Canal and the Rhine. 

The reflections of Fall

Despite the summer-like weather we had enjoyed earlier on our trip, the rains had set in.  But no one minded. We had been collectively doing a rain dance on the sun deck and there was good news today.  

The area of the Danube of concern to the Captain had experienced significant rainfall over the past couple of days and water levels had risen to a point, where fingers crossed, our journey to Amsterdam could continue unimpeded.

An early morning visit to picturesque Durnstein we made a stairmaster-like climb to a medieval castle high on the hillside above the town and its vineyards.  Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in the castle in 1193 after a dispute during the Third Crusade. Doug pretended to lock himself behind the iron bars that had served as the prison, yikes. No one would have heard his yells for help had he been successful.

Durnstein main street - seriously

Views over Melk from the Abbey

Abbey terrace connecting the Library with the Marble Hall

Our next stop was the village of Melk, overlooked by its elaborate 900 year old Benedictine Abbey.  

The Abbey is vast and today houses a large school, a museum, an impressive library of ancient manuscripts, an ornate church, a marble hall where the Hapsburgs would dine when using the Abbey as accommodation for their 300 plus member entourage during their forays to the countryside from Vienna. 

A terrace connects the Marble Hall to the Library giving impressive views over the town of Melk and the Danube.  The Abbey’s Museum is well done, housed in the former guest rooms that once accommodated Maria Theresa and her travelling companions.  

Leaving the Abbey we passed a contingent of stylish sports cars parked in the main courtyard, their owners seeking a blessing from the Abbott before some serious racing began.

Warming up the coffee with
a little sharpener

Back on board we tried the hot tub, visited the bar and enjoyed French dinner in the aft Bistro.
  
With the rain we hoped for better weather now that the drama of insufficient water levels for safe navigation had abated.

An evening a la France

PALACES, PUDDLES AND PONIES

"Man at Work" statue in Bratislava

Its always interesting to learn about events that mold a nation.  Slovakia has had a chequered history but with the fall of communism in 1989 and the Velvet Revolution that split Czechoslovakia into the Czech Republic and Slovakia in 1993, positive changes started to take hold in this small nation.  Talk to anyone on the streets of Bratislava and they will tell you that in spite of all these tumultuous events it was Slovakia’s victory over Russia in the 2002 World Hockey Championships that unified the nation.  We understood perfectly.

Leaving Bratislava after a morning walking the cobbled streets of the Slovakian capital, we set sail for the Austrian capital of Vienna, just fifty miles away.  

 

Palais Pallavicini Reception Room

Arriving in Vienna that evening we were feted at the Palais Pallavicini, a privately owned palace across from the Hofburg. Welcomed with a champagne reception to the strains of Mozart and Strauss we were struck by the ornate interior, high ceilings and sparkling chandeliers. The scene was absolutely stunning.

Our violinist, cellist and pianist continued to entertain while dinner was served and wine flowed into the exquisite crystal glasses at each place setting.  Operatic performances and dancing followed.

They certainly knew how to put
on a performance.

The gardens of Schoenbrun

Schoenbrun Palace still stately
in the rain

The next morning we were greeted with grey skies and steady rain. 

All on MS Treasures hoped the rain would have a positive impact on the desperately low Danube water levels.  

We didn’t mind a seriously bad hair day.  

Our morning was spent enjoying the apartments and gardens of the Habsburgs summer palace at Schoenbrun.  A mini Versailles, the interiors are original but despite the rain, it was the gardens we were drawn to, expansive, colourful and symmetrical in their design.

Sacher Torte has its own food group

Returning to town it was time to indulge in a Viennese specialty at one of the landmark Vienna coffee houses, Café Sacher.  Never mind the rain, we luxuriated in chocolaty Sacher Torte accompanied by a double espresso and Apple Strudl as back up. Oh those calories, but what a delight.

A horse drawn carriage trots past the Hofburg Imperial Palace - how magical is that!

Time for a little exercise we walked to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a 14^th Century landmark.  Beautiful exterior, but a little gloomy inside, the dreariness of the day not helping matters. 

Strudl pastry being prepared
at Cafe Demel

One of the antique chocolate cabinets

Returning to the Hofburg we dropped by Café Demel to watch the pastry chefs in action - the strudl pastry a good six feet in length.  

The front of the house was another matter. Every seat taken, the aromas of coffee and chocolate palpable. The displays of intricately decorated cakes and strudl impressive and the array of chocolate not for the faint of heart.

The highlight of the afternoon was our visit to the Spanish Riding School and the stables of the Lipizzaner stallions.  The tack room amazing, the stables and their stars magical.

Lipizzaner stallions perform in the
Winter Riding School arena

Immaculate Tack Room

A little on the damp side, we decided to take the subway back to our riverboat.

We reflected that despite the miserable day it really hadn’t mattered.  

We had had a brilliant day.

Photographs not allowed in the stables, this fellow watched us from the courtyard

THERMAL BATHS AND SWEEPING VISTAS

Sweeping panorama over the Danube from Gellert Hill

Orsi met us bright and early with Donny who would be driving us to various points around the city. 

Views from Gellert Hill and Liberty Monument offered wonderful views over the city, the Danube and its numerous bridges.

A tranquil residential district with beautiful gardens line the Gellert hillside, as Orsi put it, “five minutes from the happenings“.

The Hungarian State Opera House is one of Budapest's most attractive buildings.  Akin to a wedding cake in its design it was constructed when Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Smaller than its Vienna counterpart, its interior is more elaborate, apparently much to the chagrin of Emperor Franz Joseph at the time. 

Elephant House at Budapest Zoo

Across from the Opera House and tucked away in a nearby pedestrian area is a statue of Hungarian composer Franz Liszt.  What is impressive about the statue is the movement the sculptor captured in Liszt’s hands and hair making it easy to visualize the virtuoso pianist in performance.

Passing Budapest zoo on our way to the Szechenyi Thermal Baths, we caught sight of the ornate Moorish-style Elephant House built in 1912.  Impressive digs for the pachyderms! 

Szechenyi Thermal Baths

Gellert Thermal Baths

A wealth of thermal spring-fed baths grace the city but the lavish baths of Szechenyi and Gellert each have impressive 19^th century settings to showcase their indoor and outdoor pools. Both venues were busy with patrons, some arriving for medically required treatments, others for the pure enjoyment. At Szechenyi groups of male bathers congregated at one end of the outdoor pool to play chess while relaxing in the steamy waters. 

New York Coffee House

The New York Coffee House is another one of those must-see and experience coffee houses in Budapest. The New York Café began life in 1894 as part of the New York Palace, named for the New York Life Insurance Company who owned the building. From the beginning it was a magnet for the city’s writers and artists to meet and exchange ideas. The Italian renaissance interiors are nothing short of eye popping - the honey infused café latte not to be overlooked amidst the Baroque glamour.

Parliament Building from Fishermen's Bastion

On the Buda side of town, Castle Hill, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, bears the influences of the Magyars, Turks and Hapsburgs. After a healthy climb we were rewarded with more excellent views over the Danube from the turreted Fishermen’s Bastion. The colourful tiles on the roof of Mathias Church gleamed in the sun as we explored the winding cobbled streets and Baroque buildings, many of which are private residences. 

 

Enjoying the view from Castle Hill

Driving back to the Pest side of town we strolled the square in front of the Parliament Building.  Eclectic and quite beautiful, the structure combines a blend of architectural styles. Recognizable as the building featured in Budapest’s promotional tourism material it is a one of a kind. It is said that when Freddie Mercury of Queen saw the building he wanted to buy it!

Sun shining through the honey display

After a vigorous walk from Parliament, one final culinary experience awaited at the Szimpla Sunday Farmers’ Market hidden away in the Jewish Quarter amidst a crowded courtyard. Live music created a Bohemian feel as we engaged in some serious cheese tasting, followed by deer salami and spectacular organic honey.  

Orsi was determined we should try the deep fried Langos, missed the previous day.  Topped with generous amounts of cheese and sour cream we obliged somewhat reluctantly, sharing a flat bread, but deciding that Hungarians must be made of stern stuff. 

Orsi presented us with a final culinary offering that came in the form of a frozen chocolate bar - cottage cheese coated in dark chocolate.  We were now craving fresh fruit and broccoli, our systems wondering what on earth had been going on these past few days.

Saying goodbye to our wonderful Budapest guide Orsi, we joined the riverboat later that afternoon for the two-week 1150 mile journey along the Danube, Main and Rhine rivers to Amsterdam that will take us through 68 locks, water levels permitting.  

As we packed our things away we did question the decision to purchase a couple of our tastings to bring home.  Labelled in Hungarian, we were now a little fuzzy as to what we had bought.  Thank goodness for Google translator. The Rocket Pumpkin Cream and Truffled Plum Balm will be much enjoyed, now that we have been reminded what they are!

THANKS TO ORSI, WE DIDN'T GO HUNGRY IN HUNGARY

This experience leaves Starbucks in the dust

Budapest is full of surprises. Imposing buildings in all sorts of architectural styles line both sides of the Danube.  Linked together by a series of bridges,  the hills of Buda and the flatlands of Pest form the city that is Hungary’s capital.  

Cosmopolitan, sophisticated yet a little faded in parts, the city has many faces. Emerging from a long history of occupation and repression, after the fall of the Iron Curtain in 1989 a Hungarian renaissance has emerged.

We met our local guide Orsi to begin our discovery of the city, walking the nooks and crannies of Pest.  She introduced us to Budapest's coffee culture which dates back over 150 years. Some of the coffee houses look as though they have been frozen in time, high ceilings, magnificent fixtures, mirrors and glass and of course the coffee and exquisite cakes.  The Gerbeaud Café and Confectionary in Vorosmarty Square likely the grand dame of them all.

Chimney Cake
Finally a pronounceable name !

This was just the beginning of our morning with Orsi.  A culinary tour like no other.  A tasting of artisan cheese, chutneys, mustards, jams and fruit brandy produced organically and sold at Balaton Izlelo. Cardamom, tarragon and lavender flavoured chocolates from Green Hat - and then a revelation.

The Trdelnik we had enjoyed in Prague apparently originates from Transylvania and is a Hungarian speciality called Kurtoskalacs or Chimney Cake. A baker gave us a personal demonstration.  Made from sweet dough spun around a cone-shaped baking spit and rolled in granulated sugar the dough is baked above charcoal cinders until it is golden brown. The sugar turns into caramel and toppings of ground walnut and cinnamon are added.

Budapest's Central Market

Our next stop was the lively Central Market Hall with three floors to discover.  The sampling continued with pungent cheeses, salami of all kinds - particularly good the Mangalica - pork from the Hungarian woolly pig.  

A mecca for foodies

All manner of pickles, cabbage strudl, and what can only be described as pork scratchings.  Our cholestrol count rising rapidly it was probably fortunate the line up for the Langos, deep fried flat bread with sour cream, garlic and cheese, was a little too long.  We left the frenetic atmosphere of the Market for our official lunch stop.  

Enough to feed an army.  Quite possibly one sausage too far.

A tram ride later we arrived at Belvarosi Disznotoros, a butcher-caterer specializing in sausages, schnitlzl, duck, rabbit and pork. Not particularly hungry, we tried to do the generous plate of sausages, red cabbage and potatoes justice, as we stood to eat at the outdoor tables, rubbing shoulders with the locals.  A little went a long way and we needed to walk off our indulgences. 

A brisk walk to the Seventh District, once the heart of the Jewish community, we admired the exterior of the world’s second largest Synagogue, an eclectic mix of Romantic and Moorish architecture. 

 The Emanual Tree

It’s difficult not to be moved by the Raul Wallenberg Memorial Park located alongside the Synagogue walls.  A sculpted weeping willow tree bears the names of Jewish victims of the Nazi occupation, each name inscribed on one of the metal willow leaves.  Interestingly the memorial was sponsored by the Emanual Foundation of New York created in 1987 by Tony Curtis in honour of his father, Emanuel Schwartz.

St. Stephen's Basilica
City view from the Wheel

Budapest’s neoclassical cathedral, St. Stephen’s Basilica was our final cultural stop of the day. A little gloomy inside but nevertheless impressive, a large wedding was in progress with a choir and orchestra in attendance, creating a dramatic sense of occasion.

Some mighty fine reds at DaVino

Orsi’s final culinary blow of the day was the DaVino Wine Bar across from the Basilica.  The array of Hungarian wines impressive, we enjoyed a tasting of fine reds while Orsi went home to celebrate her mother’s birthday.  We would reconvene in the morning.

Across the square a more modern attraction awaited - Felnott Jegy, a ferris wheel.  While it seemed a little out of place, the views from the top of the wheel were worth the ride.

The Parliament Building

The Chain Bridge

After a change of footwear to salve our aching feet, we ventured down to the Danube so that we could cross the iconic Chain Bridge and view the Parliament Buildings.  

Both are icons of the Budapest skyline and as daylight gave way to twilight we appreciated the reflections in the Danube emanating from the illuminated buildings. Walking back to the hotel we knew there would be no need for dinner this evening, Orsi had seen to that!

SPIRES, SQUARES AND SAUSAGES

Charles Bridge - before the hordes descended

Prague is known as the City of a hundred spires. The view from our bedroom window accompanied by the melodic sounds from the many church bells attested to that.

We had arranged to meet Alzbeta on the Charles Bridge early for a walking tour of the Old and New Towns.  

The sandstone bridge designed in 1357 for King Charles IV links the Old Town with the Little Quarter.  Thirty sculptures adorn the bridge and Good King Wenceslas features a number of times. These sentinels look down silently on the buskers and street traders that set up shop on the bridge to cater to the hordes of tourists that congregate on the bridge.  Best to get there early.

Wenceslas Square

Prague’s most famous Square is actually a boulevard. The buildings lining Wenceslas Square are a mix of architectural styles with the National Museum dominating one end of the Square.  The Museum staircase became a scene in the James Bond movie “Casino Royale” where it served as the impressive entrance to a Venice hotel.

Plaque commemorating
the 1989 Velvet Revolution

More importantly, Wenceslas Square was the scene of political demonstrations when the Soviets occupied Prague in 1968. It was also the site for the National celebration of the collapse of the Communist regime in 1989.  In an arcade tucked between Wenceslas Square and the National Theatre there is a small plaque commemorating the incident which sparked the 1989 Velvet Revolution.

All that walking made us hungry!

We were amazed at the size of the Old Town Square which began life in the 12^th Century as a thriving market place.  It also served as the site for executions.  The buildings surrounding the square are stylish and impressive. Today the Square is full of outdoor cafes, vendors and street performers. The square also serves as the location for Easter and Christmas markets. 

A stall selling ham and sausages cooking tantalisingly over a spit beckoned. That along with the hot potato, cabbage and bacon salad kept us going. 

The Astronomical Clock

The Old Town Hall houses the Square’s most famous attraction - the Astronomical Clock.  The clock gives the time of day, the months and seasons of the year, the signs of the zodiac, the course of the sun and the holidays of the Christian calendar. Hugely popular, visitors wait patiently for the clock to go through its motions.

Serenity cruising the canal

Returning over the Charles Bridge, now packed, we were fortunate to be the only participants on a boat ride from the Muzeum Karla Zemana that took us along a secluded canal into the Vltava River passing under the Charles Bridge where we saw the extraordinarily high water mark from the 2002 floods.

View from the highest terrace of the Vrtba Gardens

Our feet were now barking after hours of walking but we made one last stop at the Vrtba Gardens, an Italian terraced garden created in 1715.  The gardens were immaculate and the views from the top of the terrace stunning.

After a short reprieve we made one last visit to Prague Castle followed by dinner at our favourite haunt across from St. Nicolas Church before turning our thoughts to our trip to Budapest the next morning. 

A little bonus!

We pretended it was for us

That night the sky lit up with bright light and loud bangs as a spectacular fireworks display erupted over the Old Town.  

A lovely coincidence - celebration of a wonderful stay in Prague we supposed.