THERMAL BATHS AND SWEEPING VISTAS

Sweeping panorama over the Danube from Gellert Hill

Orsi met us bright and early with Donny who would be driving us to various points around the city. 

Views from Gellert Hill and Liberty Monument offered wonderful views over the city, the Danube and its numerous bridges.

A tranquil residential district with beautiful gardens line the Gellert hillside, as Orsi put it, “five minutes from the happenings“.

The Hungarian State Opera House is one of Budapest's most attractive buildings.  Akin to a wedding cake in its design it was constructed when Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Smaller than its Vienna counterpart, its interior is more elaborate, apparently much to the chagrin of Emperor Franz Joseph at the time. 

Elephant House at Budapest Zoo

Across from the Opera House and tucked away in a nearby pedestrian area is a statue of Hungarian composer Franz Liszt.  What is impressive about the statue is the movement the sculptor captured in Liszt’s hands and hair making it easy to visualize the virtuoso pianist in performance.

Passing Budapest zoo on our way to the Szechenyi Thermal Baths, we caught sight of the ornate Moorish-style Elephant House built in 1912.  Impressive digs for the pachyderms! 

Szechenyi Thermal Baths

Gellert Thermal Baths

A wealth of thermal spring-fed baths grace the city but the lavish baths of Szechenyi and Gellert each have impressive 19^th century settings to showcase their indoor and outdoor pools. Both venues were busy with patrons, some arriving for medically required treatments, others for the pure enjoyment. At Szechenyi groups of male bathers congregated at one end of the outdoor pool to play chess while relaxing in the steamy waters. 

New York Coffee House

The New York Coffee House is another one of those must-see and experience coffee houses in Budapest. The New York Café began life in 1894 as part of the New York Palace, named for the New York Life Insurance Company who owned the building. From the beginning it was a magnet for the city’s writers and artists to meet and exchange ideas. The Italian renaissance interiors are nothing short of eye popping - the honey infused café latte not to be overlooked amidst the Baroque glamour.

Parliament Building from Fishermen's Bastion

On the Buda side of town, Castle Hill, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, bears the influences of the Magyars, Turks and Hapsburgs. After a healthy climb we were rewarded with more excellent views over the Danube from the turreted Fishermen’s Bastion. The colourful tiles on the roof of Mathias Church gleamed in the sun as we explored the winding cobbled streets and Baroque buildings, many of which are private residences. 

 

Enjoying the view from Castle Hill

Driving back to the Pest side of town we strolled the square in front of the Parliament Building.  Eclectic and quite beautiful, the structure combines a blend of architectural styles. Recognizable as the building featured in Budapest’s promotional tourism material it is a one of a kind. It is said that when Freddie Mercury of Queen saw the building he wanted to buy it!

Sun shining through the honey display

After a vigorous walk from Parliament, one final culinary experience awaited at the Szimpla Sunday Farmers’ Market hidden away in the Jewish Quarter amidst a crowded courtyard. Live music created a Bohemian feel as we engaged in some serious cheese tasting, followed by deer salami and spectacular organic honey.  

Orsi was determined we should try the deep fried Langos, missed the previous day.  Topped with generous amounts of cheese and sour cream we obliged somewhat reluctantly, sharing a flat bread, but deciding that Hungarians must be made of stern stuff. 

Orsi presented us with a final culinary offering that came in the form of a frozen chocolate bar - cottage cheese coated in dark chocolate.  We were now craving fresh fruit and broccoli, our systems wondering what on earth had been going on these past few days.

Saying goodbye to our wonderful Budapest guide Orsi, we joined the riverboat later that afternoon for the two-week 1150 mile journey along the Danube, Main and Rhine rivers to Amsterdam that will take us through 68 locks, water levels permitting.  

As we packed our things away we did question the decision to purchase a couple of our tastings to bring home.  Labelled in Hungarian, we were now a little fuzzy as to what we had bought.  Thank goodness for Google translator. The Rocket Pumpkin Cream and Truffled Plum Balm will be much enjoyed, now that we have been reminded what they are!