PASSAGE THROUGH PASSAU

Sailing into Passau, Vest Oberhaus on the hillside

Passau lies on the border between Austria and Germany. A pretty peninsula of land located in Lower Bavaria on the confluence of three rivers - the Inn, the Ilz and the Danube. 

Over the centuries the rivers brought wealth to Passau making it an important trading centre, especially for salt, the medieval world’s most precious commodity.  A city on the salt route could charge tolls and wealth ensued.  Attractive to the Catholic Church for its strategic location, Passau also evolved into the largest bishopric in the Holy Roman Empire.

Joining the other riverboats on the Passau waterfront

Strolling the narrow cobbled streets of Passau two features dominate the landscape.  The first is Vest Oberhaus, an expansive 13^th century fortress towering above the Danube and Ilz rivers. 

The second, St. Stephen’s Cathedral built in 1668 and the last of a number of churches built of wood that was not destroyed by fire. The interior is filled with elaborate white ornamentation and Italian frescos.  An immense pipe organ with over 17,000 pipes dominates the gallery.

Magnificent pipe organ in St. Stephen's

Passau's history of flooding

Passau has survived endless floods over the years but several fires burned the city to its foundations.  

After the last fire the Bishop enlisted some of the great architects of Florence and Rome to rebuild the city and it was during that 17^th century period that “the Venice of Bavaria” was born. Like Venice, Passau is prone to flooding - some of the high water level marks bring home the reality of living on a flood plain. But the locals seem to take it in stride.

MS Treasures, our home away from home

The sail away was extremely civilized. The bar ran out of beer glasses as more and more of our fellow passengers toasted the sunny afternoon with Bavarian beer.  

As we transited the next lock, conversation turned to Australia’s chances against Wales in the next World Cup rugby game, the futility of the U.S. political system, the possibility of ever convincing the U.S. on the merits of cricket, and life in general.  

Water fills another lock in our journey

And the lock gates open

Another mellow day on the Danube.

Unfortunately, the water levels drama had reared its ugly head again. There were now four senior officers on board to navigate MS Treasures on the next leg. We were advised that we may feel some movement during the night as the ship would be churning up sediment.  

Possibly it was time for another Bavarian ale.