CASTLES OF THE MIDDLE RHINE

Castles on the Rhine

The profusion of castles in various states of repair lining the Rhine between Mainz and Cologne have a fascinating history.

The narrowing river and the mountainous terrain provided the Robber Barons of the Middle Ages with an ideal place to build their fortresses and demand tolls from merchants who used the river to transport goods, the roads being far too dangerous. 

It was a case of "Hobson's Choice" for the merchant. If the merchants refused to pay the toll they would be imprisoned in the dungeons of one of the castles, or worse. 

The next Castle more impressive than the last

These strategically positioned feudal toll stations provided an excellent source of income for the Barons and their friends in the church.  Lucrative in the extreme, every inch of land was hotly contested and defended.

The Robber Barons built their castles when feudalism was at its height during the 11th and 12th centuries.  Peasants served their baron although the baron didn’t exactly live a life of luxury. The castles, while imposing from the river, were cold, damp and dark. Life revolved around war, honour and power and this continued with no great change until the French Revolution.  

Vines turning colour lift the rainy landscape

Fortified by Rudesheimer Coffee we braced ourselves for the windy ride from Rudesheim to Koblenz, a distance of 38 miles. The bar on board MS Treasures was an extremely busy place for the transit as temperatures hovered around the zero mark. Forays out on deck for those essential photographs were rewarded with your choice of brandy or schnapps.

The Lorelei Siren

One particularly dramatic landmark occurs as the Rhine narrows at the Lorelei Rock rising 400 feet above the water line.  The river depth plunges here and is one of the most dangerous places on the Middle Rhine with shipping controlled by traffic lights.  

Lorelei of course comes with its own romantic myths about a distraught woman sitting on a nearby rock combing her locks while luring sailors to their destruction in the turbulent waters.  Time for another Rudesheimer.

Street lights glowing over the
raindrops falling on the Rhine

Docking in Koblenz we walked to Deutsches Eck - German Corner - the headland where the Moselle and Rhine rivers join.  In 1897 the former German Emperor William 1 was honoured with a giant equestrian statue which was erected at the headland.  

Remnants of the Berlin Wall

After the Berlin Wall came down in 1989 three parts of the wall were erected next to the statue, with the purpose of representing German unity.  

The rain now coming down heavily we retreated on board for the overnight journey to Cologne.