CREATURES OF THE FOREST, CREATURES OF THE DEEP

Dall's porpoises entertain

The sail south from Prince Rupert took us through open water and choppy seas.  The headwinds eventually blew the angriest clouds away and the emerging sunlight caste a rosy glow over the shoreline.

Within a few hours, Dall’s porpoises appeared in droves chasing Swell’s bow as it coursed through the surf.  These stocky creatures moved at lightning speed across and beneath the bow, putting on quite the show.  Adults grow up to seven feet long and weigh close to 500 pounds.  This performance went on for several hours.

Campania Island shoreline

Off for the hike upward

Colourful plant life

Our overnight moorage provided a tranquil resting place before we continued on to Campania Island for a beach walk and forest hike.

A surprising place, reminiscent of the Galapagos, Compania has white sandy beaches and lush vegetation beyond the shoreline.  The mountainous terrain above the forest is craggy and desolate in parts although the range of unusual plant life growing between the outcrops was delicate, colourful and unusual. 

The hike back down to the beach was easier than the ascent, though being sure of foot continued to be a necessity as we stepped over fallen logs, mud and dense undergrowth. Back on board we followed Campania’s coastline although the bright sunny day we had enjoyed was coming to an end.

Dramatic Fin Whale blow

A humpback dives

Racing ahead of the weather, a plan was devised to sail through the night and anchor at the end of one of the fiords off Princess Royal Channel but not before we were treated to a show throughout the afternoon by Humpback and Fin whales.

A curious Grizzly

In the middle of the night we awoke to hear the anchor drop in Khutze Inlet, a spectacular fiord with steep mountains carpeted with verdant vegetation and a network of impressive waterfalls pouring down the mountainsides.

The rain thundered down.  It was going to be a wet exploration of the shoreline and the Khutze River estuary.

Preparing for the hunt

Birdlife was plentiful as we searched for Grizzly Bears. Eagles watched us from the treetops, swooping down to fish for the plentiful spawning salmon.  We were lucky enough to have tremendous bear sightings that morning, initially of two Grizzly Bears wading in the river as they scooped up salmon.

Dreary day on the estuary that teamed with life

Careful to be very quiet we floated silently along the estuary on our zodiac until three Grizzly Bears feasting on salmon came into view.  It was a wonderful sight as all three, a mother and two cubs not yet fully grown, gorged themselves.   

One bear pranced through the water, swiping at a gull that had come to close to his quarry.

The day was wet and miserable.  Low cloud hung over the fiord like a protective blanket but this wonderful brush with nature had lifted our spirits.