BEHOLD, THE SPIRIT BEAR!

Maple Leaf - Maybe next time

After several days cruising the inlets of Princess Royal Island we journeyed north towards Gribbell Island where we would have the best opportunity to view the Spirit Bear.

During our cruising we enjoyed sunny days and calm seas but were not prepared for the regular sightings of Fin and Humpback Whales.  They appeared in large numbers and seemed to play with us.

Relaxing on Swell's bow

We met up with Swell’s sister ship, Maple Leaf, in full sail, and it was wonderful to hear Gregg’s cheery voice again. He captains Maple Leaf but had been our naturalist on the Haida Gwaii trip.  We waved hellos while Gregg yelled “I thought you were coming on my boat next!”  Not quite ready for camping at sea on this beautiful but rather small sailboat.

Landing on Gribbell Island

Viewing Platform above
Riordan Creek

We piled into the zodiac cruising to shore for a bit of a challenging landing on Gribbell Island.  

The Waiting Game

There was no way up to the trail other than to clamber on hands and knees over a steep bank of barnacled rocks. Not our finest moment but who's looking. 

A fifteen minute hike along a muddy trail scattered with fallen branches and forest debris, including generous dollops of purple bear scat from digested berries.  A good sign. We met our Gitga'at First Nations guides, Marvin and Chris, who directed us down a steep path to a rustic viewing platform built among the treeline above Riordan Creek, a prime location for viewing Black Bear and their cappuccino coloured kin, the Spirit Bear. 

A Spirit Bear appears

While few in number, the dominant black bear resident on Gribbell Island happens to be a six year old Spirit Bear.  Imagine our excitement when he appeared through the undergrowth trolling the creek for salmon.  Moments later he lumbered across a fallen log disappearing into the brush.

Black Bear

Rising mists over the forest

After a couple of hours of patient waiting a Black Bear sauntered towards us jumping into the water more deftly than his size suggested to snag a salmon thrashing in the shallow water. 

Marvin explained that bears travel up and down the creek in search of salmon, feeding and napping 24 hours a day. Another long wait and our patience was rewarded by several more Black Bear and then the second Spirit Bear sighting we had collectively hoped for.

Spirit Bear walks with purpose

This time a head appeared from behind a grouping of fallen trees straddling the creek.  Hauling himself onto one of the logs crossing the creek with amazing grace he spotted a salmon.  Jumping into the creek his large body sent a torrent of water skyward.  Pausing to consume the catch the Spirit Bear continued his search downstream, coming very close to our viewing platform, so close we could clearly see the texture of his beautiful coat.  Wet from the foray in the water, the contours and tone of the dense fur coat were a sight to behold.  We felt so fortunate to have had this bear viewing opportunity while enjoying the majesty of the forest, the singing birds, the babbling creek - its water crystal clear - and the shards of sunlight that pierced the rising mist.

As a postscript, during William and Kate's official visit to BC in September, the Great Bear Rainforest was confirmed for inclusion in the Queen's Commonwealth Canopy, a project that creates a network of forest conservation initiatives throughout the 53 nations of the Commonwealth. 

A hopeful sign the area will be preserved for future generations.