Sunday, 2 September 2018

KINGS OF THE ARCTIC

As Vavilov approached the next band of sea ice, a polar bear and two cubs sauntered out from behind a snow bank.  

The cubs were fairly large and looked as though they would soon be fending for themselves.

A short distance away, a larger male caught sight of a sailboat, an unusual thing to see in this part of the world.  The bear did not appear to be very happy about it.  The sailboat was the first vessel we had seen since leaving Pond Inlet and we were surprised to see such a small craft in these ice ridden waters. 

The male bear started to pick up his pace as he moved towards the sailboat.  We were concerned that the sailors might have some nasty form of deterrent in mind as they had come awfully close to the bear. 

We realized they were flying a drone, an absolute no-no.  The drone startled the bear who stopped for a moment or two, retracing his steps moving towards the mother and cubs. More concern as male bears are known to predate the young.  

Fortunately all was well today.  All the bears were so large and healthy, seals being in plentiful supply.

A few hours later we had an incredible experience further into the sea ice.  While what happened was not environmentally ethical, the outcome was one of pure wonderment for everyone on board.

Another mother and cubs revealed themselves, stretched out on the ice, their cappuccino coloured coats gleaming in the sunshine.  Vavilov was stationery and everyone watched the resting bears for quite some time.  

I suppose something had to happen.  Either the ship moved, disturbing the bears, or the bears themselves would awaken from their apparent slumber.

Everyone was surprised when one of the Bridge Officers articulated a calling sound of some kind, a seal perhaps? The trio of bears immediately stood up and trotted briskly towards Vavilov’s bow.

It was incredible to witness the power and speed at which they moved, coming to within forty feet of the ship. 

An intense staring session ensued until the mother beckoned her cubs to move away. They trotted away, jumping through pools of water, occasionally stopping to look back at us.

Rightly or wrongly it was an incredible experience.  

While the Expedition staff emphasized that disturbing wildlife is not to be tolerated it was a struggle not to be both enthralled while conflicted by the experience.

And of course the wonderful pictures that resulted from such perfect conditions – beautiful, healthy polar bears, snow white crystallized ice, deep shadows from the sun’s position and the spectacular turquoise water. Nature is beautiful.



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