THE DROP BEAR DIARIES - CHAPTER 3 "BRONWYN SURPRISES THE BIRTHDAY BOY"

Lucy the road kill warrior

Our accommodation for the next three nights had been an excellent find thanks to Roger’s research - The Cove in Kettering.

A superbly comfortable bed and breakfast overlooking Kettering’s picturesque bay and marina.  

Slow roasted lamb 
(before it was demolished)

But it was two ladies in particular that made our stay an experience to savour.

Lucy the terrier who routinely welcomed us home, sniffing our vehicle’s tires for road kill.

And Bronwyn, an exceptional hostess and fabulous cook, as we were to discover.

Slow roasted lamb - gone!

Dinner that first evening was succulent slow roasted shoulder of lamb with fresh and imaginative trimmings from Bronwyn’s garden complimented by superb Tasmanian Bream Creek Pinot Noir. 

But there was more to come this first evening. Roger and Julie had arranged a delicious surprise.

Doug had enjoyed his birthday in Melbourne several days earlier with dinner on the Melbourne tram. However an amazing birthday cake had been arranged by our travelling companions.  

After the lamb had been demolished Bronwyn appeared with a decadent flaming birthday cake - Chocolate Raspberry Mud Cake - to be precise.  

Now THAT'S a chocolate cake!

Fortunately she had only put a token number of candles on the cake.  The actual number could have burned the house down.  

The cake only improved in flavour each evening as we tackled another slice after more delicious dinners and wine pairings.

A picture worth a 1000 words

The Cove had been a haven and we were sorry to leave.  

Bronwyn you are the best!

We comforted ourselves in the knowledge that Drop Bears are afraid of open flame.  

THE DROP BEAR DIARIES - CHAPTER 2 "MONA"

Off the ferry, a quick breakfast stop and a pleasant drive to Tasmania's capital of Hobart, it was time for some culture at The Museum of Old and New Art, better known as MONA. Julie and I were somewhat disappointed when our driver, obviously influenced by Karen, was not prepared to let us explore the nearby Cadburys factory.  Our complaints ebbed away when bribes of chocolate in purple wrappers appeared in the car at the first gas station stop.

The Museum of Old and New Art is a bit of a revelation.  We’d heard about Hobart resident David Walsh’s philosophy and the way in which he has chosen to spend his vast wealth on this iconic establishment.  The exhibits are eclectic, almost 70 per cent of the collection is temporary and visitors can be sure of a new cultural assault each time they visit.

MONA's dramatic sandstone and steel entrance

Love it or hate it, you can’t help but be swept up by the MONA experience. 

The building itself is impressive, its construction a contradiction of sorts. Greeted by a single storey exterior of concrete and what appear to be rusting walls, we climbed a steep series of sandstone lined steps to the entrance which is backstopped by a hall of mirrors providing a whimsical greeting as one gazes back at one’s own distorted self. 

Reflections in the "Hall of Mirrors"

MONA's interior space is an exhibit of its own - three subterranean storeys give one the feeling of entering an ancient tomb in the Valley of the Kings.

Confronted by this vast area hewn from the sandstone it is perfect exhibition space.  We were impressed - and that was just the building!

The exhibits - well its best not to over-analyse.  We had been warned that we might be shocked, appalled and amazed.  Certainly there is much that is thought provoking but quite honestly it’s a bit of a test and not to be taken too seriously.  

Best to relax and open the mind and who knows what we’d take away with us.

VIPs only in MONA ROMA's "Posh Pit"

MONA ROMA - Cruising the Derwent

Mr. Walsh is somewhat of a maverick - you only have to travel up the River Derwent on his MONA ROMA with its brightly painted cows and sheep stoically grazing the upper decks of the Catamaran to appreciate that he relishes living “outside the box”.  

The ride from the Brook Street Ferry Terminal in Hobart takes half an hour to reach MONA.



If you have bought into the “Posh Pit” which Roger had thoughtfully arranged, guests enjoy pleasant table service of drinks and snacks in comfortable seating.

The journey was far too short.

One only wonders how MONA would be received if it had been located on the banks of the Hudson or the Thames rather than the Derwent.  Broader access for sure, but perhaps part of the overall experience requires one to take the time to get to Hobart, deep in the Southern Hemisphere. After all, anyone can go to the Met or the Guggenheim.

Day one was coming to a close and fortunately there had been no Drop Bear sightings.  We suspect they had lain in wait for us at Cadburys. Obviously this was going to be a game of wits.

THE DROP BEAR DIARIES - CHAPTER 1 "THE SPIRIT OF TASMANIA"

By way of introduction, we'd like to introduce you to the Australian Drop Bear, a mysterious, and quite possibly, mythical creature often mistaken for a Koala Bear.  This assumption would be a serious mistake with potential life threatening consequences:  the Drop Bear is actually a carnivorous marsupial with some extremely dangerous habits. 

Drop Bears never leave a trace of its victim.  Apparently the reason a Drop Bear’s prey is never found is because the carcass is carried up into a particular species of Eucalyptus that is very tall and hollow.  Imagine!

It was with this troubling knowledge that we set off with Roger and Julie on our Tasmanian adventure hoping not to make the acquaintance of this sky falling demon which, we were warned, preys on non-Australians.

Note the Australian male with upturned collar

We should say it’s a little known fact that while Drop Bears are attracted to non-Australians, when Australians (especially the male) leave their homeland for extended periods they pick up a scent which concentrates itself on the back of the neck. This is why you often see Australian men with their collars turned up.

And now to our journey across the Bass Strait!

There are two vehicle ferries that make the overnight trip between Melbourne in Victoria and Devonport in Tasmania - Spirit of Tasmania 1 and 2

Not quite first in line for boarding in Melbourne

In 2005 Spirit of Tasmania 1, our vessel, ran into heavy seas and experienced waves that reached a height of twenty metres, smashing cabin windows and flooding decks as high as Deck 9. 

Unaware of this incident, but conscious of the fact the Bass Strait can be quite rough, we drove on board.  Vehicle loading seemed complicated with cars pointing in all directions.  Ferry staff had quite the process and were very patient.  We noticed that throughout the vehicle decks steel cables anchored to the floor were deployed to secure cars and trucks in the event of rolling seas.

Sumptuous dinner in the Leatherwood Dining Room

Our cabins on Deck 7 were modern and surprisingly comfortable.  The Leatherwood Restaurant a nice surprise with very good food and excellent service.  A great start to our trip, and thankfully a smooth overnight crossing.

Next morning we pulled into Devonport.  It was dark and raining.  Disembarkation was just as complicated on the vehicle decks.  

Ferry staff rely on drivers to follow their instructions to the letter and some folks seemed to listen better than others.  

The lovely Karen

Passing through quarantine Roger consulted our lady “in charge of way” better known as Karen our GPS.

We came to love the dulcet tones of her soft Australian voice as she guided us through the highways and byways of Tasmania then onward to the Snowy Mountains and Canberra.

Are you sitting comfortably?  Then buckle up!

MELBOURNE - FOODIE AND SPORTS FAN PARADISE

Melbourne's central business 
district from the Yarra River

The first thing you notice about Melbourne is its changeable weather. Being prepared for the elements is essential for a good day out exploring the city despite the weather forecast. It can change in a heartbeat.

Practicing point duty amidst 
execution of the"right hook"

The second thing that strikes you is the Melbourne traffic pattern, unique because of the city’s extensive tram network.  

Drivers execute a maneouvre called the “right hook” to navigate certain intersections so that they can turn right while avoiding the tram lines. Not for the faint of heart we discovered as we took our vehicle back to the car rental company.

The central business district is compact and easy to get around on the free Circle Tram. There’s a lot to see.

City Circle Tram outside 
Flinders Street Station

The Botanic Gardens are expansive and worthy of a longer visit than we were able to spend there. A drive through the Sandhurst area, south of the Yarra River, reveals eclectic homes with interesting architectural styles. This part of town was originally home to Australia’s new immigrants but nowadays is chic, expensive and highly sought after. New development north of the river in the Docklands area has transformed an industrial area into modern apartment living and new shopping areas.

Melbourne Cricket Ground

The sports area, east of Federation Square, is testimony to Melbourne’s love of sport. The 100,000 capacity MCG - Melbourne Cricket Ground - is well worth a visit.

Rod Laver Arena nearby, is home to tennis’s Australian Open, and sits alongside several other stadia that host basketball, soccer and rugby.

Albert Park near the Sandhurst area is home to the Australian Grand Prix Formula One Circuit - an absolutely glorious location.

Stay awhile in the Arcades!

What did we enjoy most about Melbourne?  The laneways and arcades that are home to an impressive array of shopping and restaurants. Exploring the nooks and crannies within this area is an absolute must.

An interesting find - hole in the wall coffee shops that operate on an honour system. Customers pay for their coffee by putting cash into a bowl on the counter, taking out their own change while they await the barista's creation of the day.

A particularly fine hot chocolate

The aromas of coffee, chocolate and baking had little difficulty in arousing the senses as we wandered from one storefront to the next. That, coupled with the eclectic architectural styles of the surrounding buildings, made for a great day of exploring.

Melbourne is a foodie’s paradise and if you happen to be a sports fan as well, then you have it made - as long as you have the umbrella handy.

THE TWISTS AND TURNS OF THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD

The post World War One project to employ returning servicemen in the construction of the Great Ocean Road is a tremendous legacy that forever memorializes their efforts.

The road twists and turns from Warrnambool to Torquay but it is not an experience to rush.

On one side bucolic scenes of cows and sheep grazing in lush green rolling pastures.

On the other, dramatic seascapes where the ocean over time has etched its way into the limestone creating incredible natural sculptures.

Driving the road one has to be alert and not be distracted by the view. Some of the twists and turns are akin to the Formula One hairpins of Lowes, Rascasse or Druids.

All the more important to drive carefully then stop and take the time to enjoy the view.

That view really has to be seen to be believed. The sound is another matter - at times the crashing surf is deafening.

And to make it perfect, it seemed we had it all to ourselves!

READY, EDDIE, GO!

Nice to meet you Eddie

It really is a dog’s life.

Chasing the swallows, trying to stop them building their nests in the eaves of the Homestead and failing miserably.

Chewing on gnarly old wood and hoping someone will play catch and tug with me. Riding shotgun with Steve on our ATV as we show people around the property.

I’m Eddie and I live on the Kingsford Homestead, an historic old sandstone farmhouse.  It has an imposing wooden staircase and a concealed stone stairwell to a cellar where I believe there’s a dining table and an unlocked wine cellar brimming with dusty, old bottles.

She's not getting the stick

I'm not allowed in the Homestead but through the windows I can see the rooms on the main floor with their comfortable sofas and fireplaces. I believe the sleeping quarters upstairs are very plush but I live in Steve and Jenni’s cottage across the driveway which suits me just fine.

The Cellar - Ideal for
enjoying 7 course tasting menus

The Homestead

When its dark I can see the people in the dining room eating scrumptious meals and drinking lots of Barossa wine. 

Those Canadians looked like they were having fun.  I hope they had a good time the night they dined in the cellar, I couldn’t see what was going on but they were down there a long time.

Breakfast time is always very quiet. People whispering in hushed tones against the clacking of cutlery and the strange wheezing noises coming from the Nespresso machine. From my experience its because there are usually a few dull heads.  Wine does that.

One morning Jason came in his car and took the Canadians on a tour of some of the family-owned vineyards nearby. They came back with some bottles in fancy cartons.  I didn’t think we’d run out but what do I know, I’m just a dog.

Touring the Property

I haven’t mentioned the grounds - there's a lot of space.  Sometimes I chase the rabbits hiding under the shearing shed floor when I’ve given up on the swallows but most of all I like the people who come to stay.

Some aren’t that bothered with me but those Canadians were fun, especially him.  We played fetch a lot, and as hard as he tried he couldn’t get me to drop the stick until I decided it was time.

The Bush Bath

I took them out on the ATV (I let Steve do the driving) up to the shearing shed, down to the river, across the range and to a very secluded area further down the river where we have a bush bath.  People actually go out from the Homestead and take a bath outside under the Gum trees.  Personally I prefer the river but there’s no accounting for taste.

I was really sorry to see the Canadians go.  I hope they come back.  I’ll have the sticks ready.

THE TEN POUND POM - A DAY IN FREO

Freemantle Prison

Years ago when we lived in the UK many of our friends considered emigrating to start a new life in Canada, South Africa, New Zealand or Australia - as did we.  We chose Canada. 

Many chose Australia, travelling under the ten pound ticket program. The journey by sea to Freemantle could take up to 6 weeks.

Those newcomers became affectionately known as “ten pound poms” - a reference to POHM - Prisoners of His Majesty.

Prior to migration by choice there was the “enforced migration” program - the penal colony. 

While the bulk of convicts transported arrived in Botany Bay in New South Wales, as the Freemantle settlement grew a labour shortage arose and a request was made to direct convicts to Freemantle. Ironically the letter granting this request did not arrive until after the first ship of unfortunates had arrived in Freemantle.  After the initial shock, the convicts were put to work building their future home - Freemantle prison.

Freemantle's "Cappuccino Row"

Listed as a World Heritage site today, the prison is a remarkable and foreboding limestone building and the tours offered are revealing and colourful.  Life as a prisoner was harsh considering most convicts had been transported for nothing more than stealing a loaf of bread.  Stories of successful, and not so successful, escape attempts testament to a dreamer’s ingenuity.

Cappuccino Al Fresco

With the image of the hangman’s noose fixed firmly in our minds (there were 44 hangings at the prison) we ventured to another Freemantle landmark on the waterfront - the Maritime Museum and its fine collection of sailing vessels, including Australia 2, winner of the Americas Cup in 1983. 

Freemantle's weekend market

The Museum has a wonderful display illustrating the busy migration years, not only “the ten pound poms” who travelled in relative luxury, but the large number of refugees fleeing Europe.  The names of all who entered Australia via Freemantle are listed on the walls at the Museum’s entrance.  Touching to see. 

 

Fish and Chips - Seagulls with that?

Freemantle has so much character and charm - its lively weekend market where vendors yell out their bargains, cappuccino row - a street bursting with outdoor cafes - and the restaurant and bar scene on the waterfront, home to the best fed seagulls in Australia.

While we chose Canada as our adopted home, it could have been Australia.  Ours to ponder what might have been.

ROTTO - RATS AS BIG AS CATS

Eye popping ocean view on Rottnest Island

When the Dutch explorers first discovered this part of the world they were taken aback.  

Rottnest Island, just offshore from the mainland, was awash with small marsupials and the explorers assumed they were extremely large rats.  

We had come to understand that everything in Australia seems to have its own unique abbreviation - Rottnest Island is actually "Rotto". And the rat spotted by the Dutch? That would be a Quoka.  

Quoka on Rottnest Island

On the mainland more surprises for the Dutch - black, not white swans graced the Swan River.  Where on earth were they?  Truth be known, one of the most remote and beautiful places on earth.

Cruising the Swan River

Perth is a surprise. Modern, vibrant, sunny and expensive.  A city fueled by the wealth of Western Australia's mining boom but with the feel of a big country town.  

A trip down the Swan River reveals a great deal - beautiful waterfront homes hug the shoreline and inlets, most with their own impressive floating real estate. There are a lot of boats in Perth!  

Perth's Central Business District

Newly developed suburbs stretch out in all directions from a fairly compact central business district.  But you don't have to walk far along one of the many leafy boulevards to come across any number of compact, character homes with well tended gardens - many of which have been converted into office space.

Character home - now office space 

The atmosphere in the Perth-Freemantle (Freo) area is relaxed and pleasant.  Its remoteness has probably protected it from becoming big and brash although it seems that Perth has been discovered.  

Infrastructure projects are underway all over the city.  The transportation system is impressive -  modern highways and an extensive public transportation system.  We particularly appreciated the free bus system in the central business district.

Gardener in King's Park 

A sprawling Kings Park is an absolute treasure and must see, not just for the varieties of Western Australian flora but for the views over the city and Swan River.

A gardener stopped to chat.  We asked why her Toro had been decorated in crochet patches.  "No reason" she replied "seemed like a good idea at the time".

Making our way from Kings Park to Freemantle, we waited for the free bus.  It was the end of the route for the bus driver who had taken a break, returning to the bus with a cup of tea and a sausage roll. Brushing the crumbs from his sweater, he told us exactly what to do, dropping us at the the train station, along with some parting instructions.  "See you in Vancouver one day", he said with a broad smile on his face.

TALES FROM THE INDIAN PACIFIC: THE GOLDEN PIT

Dwarfed by the size of the equipment

Paddy Hannan set off a stampede to Western Australia when he discovered gold in 1893. The rest, simply put, is history.

While the mining corporations have replaced the chaos of the early fortune hunters who descended on Kalgoorlie’s goldfields, the world’s largest single open cut mine continues to operate on two 12-hour shifts.

We were to visit during the night shift, the Indian Pacific having pulled into Karlgoorlie station at 10:00 p.m.

The "Super Pit" a hive of activity on the night shift

The “Super Pit” is 2 miles long, 1 mile wide and 1500 feet deep - the depth equivalent to two Shangri La towers - Vancouver’s tallest building.

The massive equipment operating deep in the pit resembled Tonka toys from the viewing platform above. 

Kalgoorlie-Boulder is Western Australia’s largest regional city with a population of 30,000.  The town is modern and thriving - a far cry from the early prospector days when bordellos, cheap hotels and bars occupied every street corner.

Kalgoorlie Railway Station boasts the longest
platform in the Southern Hemisphere

After crossing the Nullarbor and the goldfields we felt as though we were well and truly in Australia’s “wild west”.  

Reboarding the train close to midnight, it would be one more sleep before pulling into Perth early the next morning.  

The Avon Valley - a prelude to Perth

We awoke to the rolling hills and verdant scenery of the Avon Valley - a striking change from the starkness of the Nullabor.

We were an hour away from our arrival in Perth, Western Australia's beautiful capital city on the shores of the Indian Ocean.  A city so remote its actually closer to Singapore than Sydney.

Hard to believe we had crossed a continent in three days and experienced so many contrasts. Such a memorable journey, enjoyed in such style!

TALES FROM THE INDIAN PACIFIC: BIKING FOR THE DOCTOR

All things considered, there can’t be too many places in the world more inhospitable than the Nullarbor Plain, so named because of its lack of trees.

Cyclist gives a wave

And yet in testament to the human spirit there are always some hopeful souls who strive to defy the odds.

In this case, a group of Great Southern Railway employees biking a 500 mile stretch alongside the train tracks with the goal of raising money for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

On the face of it, a laudable act.  In reality, some significant barriers to overcome:  blazing sun with no shade, relentless swarms of flies and terrain that would reduce any self-respecting bike mechanic to tears. 

They can't be serious!

The 25 car train slowed several miles before meeting up with the cyclists and when we spotted them we all let out a huge cheer of appreciation.  

There they were, riding on a 20 million year old limestone sea bed following an old service track alongside the Indian Pacific train line. All around them, the nothingness of the Nullarbor stretching out to the horizon on all sides.

A tinge of guilt setting in ......

Sitting in the bar with a pleasant Chardonnay in hand, we felt a little guilty seeing those lads out in the elements.  They were certainly up for the occasion as they waved cheekily at us, one fellow sporting a long blonde wig, another with a whitewashed face.

The train staff told us how many times the Royal Flying Doctor Service has been summoned to deal with an emergency in the outback.  Funded in part by various levels of Government, the Service relies heavily on fundraising to operate.  

The boys were certainly doing their part having raised over $25,000.  Good on them!

TALES FROM THE INDIAN PACIFIC: KISS THE FLY

If crocodile is not to your taste ....

Delights of Adelaide Central Market

After lunch on Day 2 , the Indian Pacific pulled into Adelaide and we left the train for a few hours to visit the central market.

Many people left the train having completed their journey, while new passengers arrived at the station for the onward trip to Perth. 

Crews changed while the engines shunted train cars and car carriers, rearranging them for the onward journey westwards.  A cleaning crew washed train windows, wiping and polishing methodically as they moved down the platform. And then it was all aboard as the Indian Pacific headed northwest passing Port Augusta at the head of the Spencer Gulf with the Flinders Ranges in the distance.

The next morning on Day 3 we would arrive, quite literally, in the middle of nowhere.

Welcome to Cook - stay awhile!

If you were to pinpoint a place on a map in the Australian outback with the coordinates of 1100 kilometres west of Adelaide and 1500 kilometres east of Perth you would come across the ghost town of Cook.

Located on the barren Nullarbor Plain, Cook’s reason for existence was to support the construction of the Trans-Australian Railway, completed in 1917.  

The jailhouse - warm and toasty for inmates

At its height Cook had a population of 200, a school, hospital, swimming pool, golf course (no grass though), jail, post office and general store. After the railway was privatized in the 1990s, the population dwindled and today there are only four full-time residents. 

Taking on water before crossing into Western Australia

Despite this, the relationship between Cook and the Indian Pacific is an important one - the train brings food, supplies and mail while the residents provide the train with fuel, water and accommodation for replacement crews.

Lying on the longest straight stretch of railway track in the world, Cook brings a whole new meaning to remoteness with the Nullarbor desert extending to the horizon in all directions.

Stepping from the train one cannot help but be struck by a profound feeling of isolation, unless of course you count the voraciousness of the welcoming committee: swarms of persistent flies.

A tour of the town does not take long, even when you've walked to the front of the train for that obligatory picture with the engine!