KUALA LUMPUR – BEYOND THE TWIN TOWERS

Kuala Lumpur's Petronas Towers

It’s a long haul from KLIA, the international airport, into town.  Passing through four toll booths along a congested highway system, dusk was setting in as the skyline of the city centre finally came into view.  The 88 storey Petronas towers immediately recognizable.

Our hotel room on the 19^th floor looked directly on to this Lego-like, three D structure.  Having watched far too many episodes of Star Trek over the years, the structure seemed a little reminiscent of architecture from the Klingon Home world.  Constructed on land formerly occupied by Kuala Lumpur’s turf club in the 1990s, the Towers are still one of the world’s tallest buildings, surpassed in 2004 when Taipei 101 took over the title of world’s tallest. 

We were reminded of the Sean Connery movie “Entrapment” as we looked up at the sky bridge which joins both towers at the 41/42nd floor levels

The Old Railway Station

The former cricket club

A further look around Kuala Lumpur revealed an efficient metro system below ground while the remnants of Malaysia’s colonial past are everywhere above ground.  

From the old railway station and administrative buildings designed in an attractive Moorish style to the former cricket club, the central strip of the pitch like an island set in the midst of what is now a soccer field.  The playing area is surrounded by neatly kept Tudor style buildings, the modern towers of Kuala Lumpur providing a dramatic contrasting backdrop. The National Mosque and Sultan Abdul Samad Palace are also impressive as was the design and ambiance of the National Memorial.

Malacca's Red Square

And the crazy trishaws

In contrast, Malacca, a two hour drive south of Kuala Lumpur is somewhat of a contradiction.  

This historic town with its multicultural heritage, a fusion of Asian and European influences has a storied past. 

In particular, and of great interest to us, Malacca was the centre of Peranakan culture.  While the salmon pink Dutch administrative buildings are reminiscent of Malacca’s significant past, the cacophony of Red Square was palpable.  Trishaws decorated outrageously with cartoon characters and pop culture icons of all descriptions boomed out music from speakers lodged in various parts of the bike frame as cyclists touted for business.  For a brief while it was fun to be a voyeur as the carnival like atmosphere repeated its daily ritual in front of our eyes.  We retreated in search of Malacca’s past and you didn’t have to go too far.

Later, as the only non Asians in the Baba Nyonya restaurant we appeared to shock all in attendance when luke warm tea was replaced at our request by Tiger Beer.  The only thing that seemed to alleviate the crushing humidity.

Backbreaking basket weaving

The Cameron Highlands located a mile above sea level known for its tea plantations and cooler temperatures were a pleasant change.  As we made the three hour drive from Kuala Lumpur we visited the Batu Caves, a Hindu temple within a mountain once you have managed to climb the 300 steps and avoid the cheeky monkeys.  We also visited a local cottage industry that produces large baskets from bamboo used to transport  the farm produce grown in the Highlands.  The Lata Iskandar waterfall was a cooling stop as families picnicked on the hillside while their children frolicked in the water.

The glorious tea plantations

Brilliant green as far as the eye can see

A change of scene in the Cameron Highlands hotel – afternoon tea with airy light scones and pungent Cameronian black tea.  

Next morning travelling in a vintage Land Rover with very dodgy transmission we explored what had once been a highland retreat station frequented by the British in colonial times.  The fresh cool air from 6,666 feet on Mount Brinchang was something else. 

Wedding photo shoot in the forest

A stroll through the Mossy Forest boardwalk revealed all sorts of flora, fauna and views, including a pre-wedding photo shoot in progress amongst the ancient trees.  

The bride to be in her garlanded headdress and white tulle gown looked like Fairy Queen Titania from “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” while her husband seemed more interested in Canada and where we had been on our trip.  Yet another person who knew all about our Prime Minister!

Positively geometric

The one thing that signifies the Cameron Highlands are the tea plantations.  Shades of green exceed the colour spectrum while the tightly organized plantings create a geometric outlook.  Just beautiful.

Hand picked strawberries for tea!

The Sungei Pala Boh (Boh = Best of Highlands) tea estate is one of the best known in the region and then there were the strawberries.  Red to the core, they melted in the mouth.  Grown in a perfect agricultural environment, strawberry production as well as a whole myriad of vegetables and flowers flourish here.  The primary market is Singapore.

One evening we sampled the “Steamboat” hot pot.  Several flavoured broths are brought to the table and kept simmering on a table top stove while a selection of thinly sliced meat, seafood, leafy vegetables, mushrooms, wontons, noodles, tofu and dumplings are added to the broth.  A series of dipping sauces for the cooked items, some of which needed to carry a warning of “Beware” complete the dining experience.

Villa Samadhi - a few steps from
bed to pool

Time to relax

Our month long wanderings around South East Asia ended back in Kuala Lumpur at the Villa Samadhi, an oasis in the heart of the city.  

The small complex had a Balinese feel to it.  

Our room had an outdoor plunge pool in a walled courtyard at one end with direct access from the bedroom down a short wooden ladder from the patio into the swimming pool at the other end.  The pool had been designed around the other accommodations, palms and lush greenery.

The aromas of lemongrass, peppermint, ginger and cloves will long stay in my memory.  What better way to prepare for the long trek home than by indulging in a dreamy massage. 

Amidst the daily afternoon thunder and lightning which dramatically cools the air, it was time to think about the chilly Qualicum rain again. 

Harry time to pack your bags, we’re coming home!