SAVOURING THE FLAVOURS OF HONG KONG

The infamous Chinese egg tart

The last British Governor of Hong Kong, Chris Patten, was well known for his love affair with the Chinese egg tart: a mouth watering confection made up of a velvety custard filling nestled in a buttery rich crust.  

This understandable addiction resulted in Mr. Patten earning the unfortunate moniker of “fatty patty”, the calorie count off the scale.

We’ve had the good fortune to visit Hong Kong a number of times over the years, this stay a stopover on our way to Bali.  On this particular visit we had planned a foodie walking tour of the lesser known haunts of Hong Kong Island.

Interesting wares line the sidewalk

We arrived in Hong Kong early morning from Vancouver, the warm sunny weather a blessing after a prolonged cold, snowy winter back home.  Once installed in the hotel we set out on the MTR - Hong Kong’s efficient metro – to check out the meeting place for the next day’s adventure. 

Ascending from the depths of the metro station concourse, we emerged into blinding sun and an assault of aromatic smells.   

The hustle and bustle on Des Voeux Road was evident with delivery trucks disgorging all sorts of goods without care for the hoi polloi on the sidewalks.   Fish hung on the railings alongside the curb, their scales glinting in the sunlight.  Merchants showcased their exotic wares, containers and cotton sacks spilling over on to the pavement.  Picking one’s path through this assault required extreme concentration, and a full stomach!

Satisfied that we had the drill organized for the next day we returned to the MTR, visiting the magnificent Marks and Spencer food floor, the Melton Mowbray pies absolutely outstanding.   

Another hop on the MTR took us over to Kowloon on the other side of Victoria Harbour and a sentimental visit to “the Pen”, one of the best hotel experiences we have ever enjoyed (last visit).  Afternoon tea was in full swing as the quartet on the Juliet balcony overlooking the Peninsula’s cavernous lobby played their hearts out. 

No stay in Hong Kong is complete without a ride on Star Ferries, it never disappoints.  Returning to Hong Kong Island our feet were barking.  Time to rest up.

Rather you than me

Next morning we met up with Richard, our foodie guide for the day.  A small group of nine made introductions and set out for our first stop – Dim Sum at the Lin Heung Kui Tea House.  The old restaurant heaved with humanity, Richard guiding us to the third floor “where it was less busy”.  

We're watching

“Busy” must mean something different here because the third floor was stacked with people, cheek by jowl, the smiling dim sum waitresses somehow finding a way to manoeuvre their carts to each table while a grizzled server heaved an oversized steaming kettle to infuse the waiting teapots. No one was going to get in his way! Dim Sum’s OK but I’ll never be able to square with chickens feet no matter how succulent the sauce topping the skeletal remains.

Waiving goodbyes to our toothless server, we ventured along Wing Lok Street, eyeing the dried seafood, shark fins, birds’ nests, dried caterpillars and other goods apparently essential to good health.  

Two well fed cats reclined lazily on overstuffed sacks of unrecognizable goods in one store, eyeing us suspiciously.  In house rat catchers perhaps.

Mak's excellent wonton house

A steady climb through the chaos over uneven walkways brought us to Mak’s Noodle House on Wellington Street across from the Graham Street wet market.  Mak’s – a wonton house – is quite the success story with outlets across the Territory and in Singapore.  

The original restaurant was discovered by Anthony Bourdain who cited the blend of delicious broth, al dente noodles, delicate shrimp and tender beef brisket made in this kitchen, in his opinion, a required “go to”.  It was. The chef dispensed the wonton with lightning speed while an associate worked feverously in the background assembling the next batch.

Milk teas all round

A walk through the wet market brought us to Gage Street and the Lan Fong Yuen milk tea emporium.  Overlooking the vibrant market below we joined a long line of customers who enjoyed the beverage concocted from various tea varieties and condensed milk.  We also tried the Yuen Yeung, a blend of tea, coffee and condensed milk. 

Both offerings were really good.  As we sipped on the beverage Richard took us up on the Central - Mid-Levels Escalator system, the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator system linking the hilly districts of Hong Kong Island high above the busy traffic.

View from the "ding ding"

Before heading off to the Wanchai district on the “ding ding” – Hong Kong’s famous open air tram – we stopped at the Apothecary where a traditional Chinese medicine practitioner dispensed his exotic wares while his assistants carefully wrapped the prescription ingredients in rice paper.  

The tram ride gave us pause to contemplate our experiences so far, but the best was yet come. 

A well earned Michelin star  

The Joy Hing Restaurant specializes in roasted meats and even has a Michelin star.  The restaurant capacity is small and as our group of 9 was guided into a space not much bigger than a walk in closet we realized this was not a place to linger.  You ate then left.  Nine stools magically became available as peer pressure governed the day.  

No sooner than the last morsel was consumed we left our seats, still chewing, the long line of hungry customers on the street eyeing us patiently for their turn. Despite the rush, the food was absolutely fabulous.

Our final stop was the Honolulu Coffee Shop.  Apparently the owner didn’t know what to call his establishment and settled on this.  The name did nothing to promote the delicious wares on sale, the star of which was the egg tart.  Richard served our egg tarts in a nearby park.  The experience brought a whole new meaning to “melt in the mouth”.  We understood how Mr. Patten had become addicted to this creamy confection.

Hong Kong is like that.  So much to savour.  When you discover something special it’s hard not to overindulge on the flavour!

 

BEAUTIFUL BALI THROUGH AMANDARI EYES

Bali's Rice Terraces

The creamy, fleshy fragrance of the tuber roses was almost heady as we adjusted to our first tropical evening in the open air restaurant.  Crickets and frogs warmed up for their evening duet as Balinese musicians performed Gamelan bamboo and flute music, unseen, from a gazebo beyond the pool.

But the predawn symphony the following morning was unequalled.  At about 3 a.m. the lead rooster cleared his throat and before long his compatriots across the river valley, all crowing in different pitches, joined in.  Not to be outdone, the songbirds added their sing-along calls sounding so happy to welcome another day.  In contrast we could also hear other birds with a more guttural abrupt call, adding their contribution, as though to let us know they were there.

Fifty shades of green

Lying in the dark it was as if the Concertmaster had picked up his violin bow and began to play, a cue for the woodwind and percussion sections of the orchestra to warm up.  And the role of the bird with the abrupt call?  Rather like a conductor rapping his baton on the podium.

As the sun rose. Tiny birds darted amongst the foliage around our window.  It was official, we were in paradise!

Our accommodation at the Amandari Resort, just outside Ubud is located above the Ayung River in the most glorious setting. Each free standing thatched accommodation is constructed of coconut wood and teak with a bamboo framed roof layered with Alang Alang thatch.

Entrance through a walled garden

Our hideaway

Now there's a view while eating the cornflakes

The exterior entrance takes one through a Balinese stone gateway and a walled garden, shades of Angkor design.  The interior’s marble floor with private outdoor bathing area flanks the interior bathroom. With several other outdoor patios and a separate outdoor eating area under a thatched gazebo we felt we had found our little piece of heaven.

The public spaces of restaurant, lobby and bar are partially open air and overlook an infinity pool.  The spa treatment rooms are designed the same way with a soothing waterfall on one side. With all these features and wonderful staff it was hard to think about venturing out, but during our four day stay we did manage a few excursions.

Heavy work in the rice paddies

We travelled through the main tourist area and were surprised at how the rice terraces had commercialized since our last visit 13 years ago.  But we did have a clear view of Mount Batur, a dormant volcano with its tell tale lava flows usually shrouded in cloud.  A visit to a local organic tea and coffee plantation we sampled Kopi Luwak or Civet Coffee made from partly digested coffee beans defecated by the Asian palm civet.  Well, we had to try it.  Let’s just say it was rich and very strong.

The ginger, turmeric and lemongrass teas were especially good and somewhat comforting as we waited out a torrential tropical downpour.

Taking a break

One of the many highlights of our Amandari stay was an early morning walk through the flat rice paddies near a busy local morning market. I will remember the hard working farmers toiling in the hot sun next time I put rice in my mouth.  

Our walk through the paddies was an education on the growing process, the irrigation system and crop rotation.  

A group of farmers invited us to join them for breakfast.  

The Balinese feast

Amandari outdid itself in terms of hospitality, putting on an impromptu Balinese feast for “Bapak and Ibu Watson” in a private gazebo above the river.

Babi Guling in progress

Another evening a Babi Guling suckling pig was barbequed over coffee wood and served with Balinese craft beer al fresco by the pool.


We also enjoyed a cultural performance by the Kedewatan village children, many of whom were children of the resort staff.

They practice daily and it shows.

Our very special entertainment!

It’s no wonder the morning chorus and sundown singalong is such a happy one.  Everyone seemed to be at one with the natural environment in this beautiful place.

MOTHER OF DRAGONS – KOMODO ISLAND

Komodo Island

On board Crystal Symphony we dropped anchor early morning off Indonesia’s Komodo Island.

The volcanic peaks, chaotic in their shapes were breathtaking.  It was as though a rich emerald green blanket had been thrown over the jagged rocky outcrops.  

Puffy cumulus clouds rested like cotton balls in the bright blue sky while the sunlight cast watery reflections in the deep blue sea below.  It was gorgeous.

Charming little fellow

Cotton candy clouds

We were here on a mission to see the biggest, heaviest lizard on earth. 

The Komodo dragon can weigh up to 300 pounds, measure 11 feet in length and run as fast as a dog.  It is a carnivore and a cannibal, has 60 serrated teeth and can swim and climb trees.
  









If that’s not enough to make one think twice, they also produce a toxic saliva.  If the bite doesn’t kill you, the poison will.  Lovely.

Fearing we may not see one of these prehistoric creatures – they apparently sleep during the day – we ventured into the woodland with the Park Ranger. After an hour or so of seeing nothing in particular we had our moment with three dragons settled in a clearing, hard to spot as they blended so well into the colours of the jungle floor.  We think they had been well fed, they looked pretty relaxed.

It didn’t take long to get a measure of their power – strong front and rear legs ending in particularly gruesome looking claws.  Their tails lay on the ground resting in an “S” shaped pose and despite their languid demeanour it didn’t take much to imagine what would happen if they sprang into action. 

The beach was quite a contrast after that introduction

We were grateful to have had the opportunity to see these amazing creatures but not sorry to part company.

As we sailed away the Island’s dramatic, verdant landscape continued to impress.  But it did seem to confirm that things are not always what they seem. 

When the first explorers discovered this beautiful place how could they have known that Komodo Island was actually the mother of dragons! All that was missing, Daenerys Targaryen. 

SAILING THE SULU SEA

Our transpo to the mangrove nursery

The Sulu Sea is a body of water bounded by Northeast Borneo and the Southwest islands of the Philippines. We were a long way from home!

Romblon is likely one of the lesser known tourist destinations of the Philippines and it was a joy to step ashore and be greeted by such incredibly friendly people.

Then there was the colour of the street scenes – jeepneys competing with trishaws for their space on the road, all painted in riotous splashes of colour and named for saints, pop stars and girlfriends.

One mangrove for Watsons, another for Harry

Jeepneys were originally recycled from abandoned World War Two military jeeps.  Newer models have been kitted out with all sorts of enhancements – music systems, mirrors and wild upholstery.  What they have in common is that they are stacked to the rafters with people and their belongings.

Our base model jeepney took us on a nail biting drive (seat belts were not one of the enhancements on this particular vehicle) out to the Municipal Mangrove and Wildlife Sanctuary.

The breeding ground of various species of migratory birds, the Sanctuary is also home to a mangrove nursery.

The mangrove planting team

A mangrove is a botanical amphibian that thrives in muck, mud, seawater and stifling heat.  Our hosts explained the importance of mangroves to the ecosystem and our job today as volunteer planters.

The reward for our endeavours was a handmade sign with our names and country of origin inserted into the mud next to the seedling. The seedling resembled a stalk of asparagus and once rooted would grow to about five feet in a couple of years.  

The folks at the nursery were so friendly and fun it was a joy to be there.  After the serious work was completed we enjoyed fresh coconut milk and an assortment of local fruits which was followed by some serious photo taking.

For once it was not the tourists but the locals snapping away.  We were the first visitors to have the planting opportunity and felt quite honoured to be a part of it.

Is that more snow in Qualicum Beach??

Wish you were here!

The previous day we had called in at another off the beaten track island – Boracay.

Taking a colourful outrigger we swam and snorkeled at various spots along the coastline but the absolute highlight was Puka Beach, its white sandy shores lapped by an aquamarine ocean. Sand between the toes the perfect antidote to the miserable cold winter we had left behind in Canada.

And all the while the warmth of the Filipino people outshining everything else. Wonderful!

BORNEO REVEALED

Mount Kinabalu, Sabah

We never imagined that we would have the opportunity to set foot on the island of Borneo, a place that seemed so remote and mysterious.
  

Trail through the rainforest

The very name conjures up images of dense jungle, exotic wildlife and head hunters.

Borneo is the world’s third largest island and is administered by three different countries – Brunei, Malaysia and Indonesia.

Half the world’s tropical timber comes from Borneo, its rainforest one of the oldest.  

It’s also one of the most bio-diverse places on the planet with an estimated 15,000 plant species. 

Mount Kinabalu at over 13,000 feet is South East Asia’s highest mountain and our visit to the Malaysian state of Sabah gave us a wonderful opportunity to explore the mountain range and its surrounding national park. 

The scenery, rugged with dense jungle, the marked trails providing introductions to exotic flora and fauna, the wild orchids particularly gorgeous.

Returning to “KK” – Kota Kinabalu – our next stop was “BSB” – Bandar Seri Begawan, capital of the nation of Brunei.  Some say BSB is one of the finest world capitals that oil money can buy with its modern buildings, highways and first world conveniences.

The country’s oil and gas reserves are substantial and the main source of income.  The Sultan of Brunei, one of the world’s richest individuals, has spread the wealth around with subsidized housing, free education and medical care.  However, the Sultan has absolute control in this Islamic country which observes Sharia law.

BSB's water villages

In contrast to the modern, gleaming city lie the water villages, a collection of homes built on stilts in the Brunei River.  Efforts have been made to relocate the water village dwellers to the mainland to little avail.  Despite the basic appearance of what look like ramshackle structures, the poorest looking homes are likely to contain modern amenities with many residents keeping their cars in garages on the mainland calling upon a hodge podge flotilla of motorboats to commute across the river.

 Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque

Omar Ali Saifud-Din Mosque

Overlooking the river the Omar Ali Saifud-Din Mosque with its beautiful golden dome and white minarets reflect in the surrounding lagoon.  

The newer Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque is more opulent, even glitzy, with its 29 golden domes, but somehow the older mosque gave one an instant feeling of peace and serenity.

The Sultan’s Istana Nurul Iman Palace, with a mere 1788 rooms, can only be viewed from the river.  King Salman of Saudi Arabia was due to visit Brunei and it was hard to avoid the preparations underway. Motorcades with police escorts sped along the highway leading to the Palace gates while schoolchildren lined the route.  

It was only later that we learned about the King’s 1500 strong travelling entourage, fleet of seven aircraft, limousines, personal elevator, large kettle of hawks and massive amount of cargo.

Gleaming display of shields in the Regalia Building

The Royal Regalia Building

The Royal Regalia Building documents the life of the Sultan and houses the coronation regalia and gifts received to commemorate His Majesty’s silver jubilee. 

Jerudong Polo Club's Berkshire Hall

The Jerudong Polo Club, once intended for the Sultan’s exclusive use, is now open to visitors.  The Berkshire Hall, used for special events is spectacular with massive Swarovski crystal chandeliers gleaming in the ceiling and oils of the Sultan playing polo adorning the walls.  Grand banquets are held here but no alcohol!  

The stables once housed close to 4000 polo horses but that number is substantially less these days.

In between our busy day of sightseeing we enjoyed lunch at the Empire Hotel.  This luxurious beach front hotel and country club overlooks the South China Sea and was built at a cost of $350 Million.  The plush restaurant decorated with orchids was staffed by an international team and the offerings were diverse and tasty.  But who knew one of the desserts would be a blackberry and apple crumble!  

We realized that the island of Borneo is not as remote as we had once supposed. 

ME AND MR. SINGH

Gardens by the Bay from the Skydeck
of the Marina Bay Sands

The city state of Singapore never ceases to amaze.  Our third visit in 25 years, it had been 17 years since the last one.  There had been quite a few changes!

Land reclamation, which continues, has created the expansive Marina Bay development, the crowning jewel of which is Gardens by the Bay with its vast temperature-controlled conservatories and towering vertical gardens. The two conservatories house a stunning flower garden in one and a cloud forest with the world’s tallest indoor waterfall in the other. 

Marina Bay Sands from Merlion Park

Through the surrounding outdoor gardens it’s hard not to gawk at the Marina Bay Sands, a Las Vegas style hotel comprising three large towers joined at the top with an expansive deck on the 58^th floor open for public viewing and above that, space for hotel guests which includes an infinity pool.  

The complex designed by the renowned architect Moshe Safdie resembles a set of massive cricket stumps and bails.  Mr. Safdie also designed Vancouver’s unusual public library, British Columbia’s very own Coliseum.

The view from the “sky deck” is impressive but below at ground level the hotel lobby was not altogether welcoming with a confused scene of humanity swarming this way and that, not unlike a busy airport terminal.

Waiting as Rosslea checks us in,
coffee on the way

Raffles by night

We, on the other hand, had decided a long time ago to splash out one day on Singapore’s most iconic hotel property, Raffles.  

The elegant lobby

Me and Mr. Singh

This heritage hotel smacks of charm and character, maybe a little faded in parts these days as the hotel embarks on an ambitious renovation program.  

Doug with the younger Mr. Singh

What's missing from this picture?

Mr. Singh, an institution at the hotel, is the elder of three turban-clad doormen.  

As our car crunched its way over the immaculate gravel driveway coming to a halt outside the hotel’s front door, Mr. Singh greeted us with a huge smile, gleaming eyes and booming voice. 

He has been there for years and we did remember him from our last visit when we visited the hotel's Long Bar to sample the famed (and highly overrated) Singapore Sling.  

Rosslea, one of the hotel concierges latched on to us as soon as we walked in the door, anticipating everything we could possibly ask for. Its always about the people and the welcome we received and service throughout our stay was absolutely first class.

Walking to our Palm Court suite, the dark wooden walkways squeaked a little underfoot.  Exotic rattan chairs rested against the while plaster columns and railings that overlook the tropical gardens below with swaying palms and chuckling birds.  We felt as though we had been transported back to colonial times, it felt like another world.

Once we had come back down to earth, we ventured out on Singapore’s immaculate MTR arriving at Fort Canning for a guided tour of the Battlebox and Fort Canning Hill.  The Battlebox was the underground command centre of Malaya Command, the army that defended Singapore in World War Two.  The decision to surrender Singapore to the Japanese in 1942 marked the beginning of the end of the British Empire and the start of the darkest chapter of Singapore’s modern history.  It was hard not to be moved by the events and eventual outcomes.

On to happier things, we revisited the Botanical Gardens, viewing a tree that transformed the region – Hevea Brasiliensis – the rubber tree.  Its seeds had been smuggled out of Brazil by the British who experimented with them at Kew Gardens, later introducing seedlings to the Malayan peninsula where they flourished.

The “must see” at the Botanical Gardens is the National Orchid Garden which showcases the largest number of orchids in the world. Stunningly beautiful, their shapes and colours a treat to see. 

In another part of town, the Peranakan shop houses with their brightly painted doors, shutters and inlaid tile were another draw.  The Peranakan people were the result of trade that lured travellers from China, Indonesia and India to Malacca.  Many merchants put down roots, marrying local women.  Their descendants became the Peranakan.

The Peranakan Museum is well curated with exhibits showcasing rituals, language, food, fashion and handicrafts.  The embroidery and beadwork particularly fabulous.  

The display of kebayas was lovely.  The kebaya is an embroidered blouse held together with a series of three ornate brooches and has been adapted as part of Singapore Airlines' cabin uniform.

What is old is new again in Singapore.  Its greening has produced a city within a garden as opposed to gardens within a city.  In spite of Singapore’s constant development and change it really was nice to see Mr. Singh again.