Saturday, 25 March 2017

BORNEO REVEALED

Mount Kinabalu, Sabah
We never imagined that we would have the opportunity to set foot on the island of Borneo, a place that seemed so remote and mysterious.
  
Trail through the rainforest

The very name conjures up images of dense jungle, exotic wildlife and head hunters.

Borneo is the world’s third largest island and is administered by three different countries – Brunei, Malaysia and Indonesia.

Half the world’s tropical timber comes from Borneo, its rainforest one of the oldest.  

It’s also one of the most bio-diverse places on the planet with an estimated 15,000 plant species. 

Mount Kinabalu at over 13,000 feet is South East Asia’s highest mountain and our visit to the Malaysian state of Sabah gave us a wonderful opportunity to explore the mountain range and its surrounding national park. 

The scenery, rugged with dense jungle, the marked trails providing introductions to exotic flora and fauna, the wild orchids particularly gorgeous.

Returning to “KK” – Kota Kinabalu – our next stop was “BSB” – Bandar Seri Begawan, capital of the nation of Brunei.  Some say BSB is one of the finest world capitals that oil money can buy with its modern buildings, highways and first world conveniences.

The country’s oil and gas reserves are substantial and the main source of income.  The Sultan of Brunei, one of the world’s richest individuals, has spread the wealth around with subsidized housing, free education and medical care.  However, the Sultan has absolute control in this Islamic country which observes Sharia law.
BSB's water villages

In contrast to the modern, gleaming city lie the water villages, a collection of homes built on stilts in the Brunei River.  Efforts have been made to relocate the water village dwellers to the mainland to little avail.  Despite the basic appearance of what look like ramshackle structures, the poorest looking homes are likely to contain modern amenities with many residents keeping their cars in garages on the mainland calling upon a hodge podge flotilla of motorboats to commute across the river.


 Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque

Omar Ali Saifud-Din Mosque












Overlooking the river the Omar Ali Saifud-Din Mosque with its beautiful golden dome and white minarets reflect in the surrounding lagoon.  

The newer Jame’Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque is more opulent, even glitzy, with its 29 golden domes, but somehow the older mosque gave one an instant feeling of peace and serenity.

The Sultan’s Istana Nurul Iman Palace, with a mere 1788 rooms, can only be viewed from the river.  King Salman of Saudi Arabia was due to visit Brunei and it was hard to avoid the preparations underway. Motorcades with police escorts sped along the highway leading to the Palace gates while schoolchildren lined the route.  

It was only later that we learned about the King’s 1500 strong travelling entourage, fleet of seven aircraft, limousines, personal elevator, large kettle of hawks and massive amount of cargo.

Gleaming display of shields in the Regalia Building
The Royal Regalia Building
The Royal Regalia Building documents the life of the Sultan and houses the coronation regalia and gifts received to commemorate His Majesty’s silver jubilee. 


Jerudong Polo Club's Berkshire Hall
The Jerudong Polo Club, once intended for the Sultan’s exclusive use, is now open to visitors.  The Berkshire Hall, used for special events is spectacular with massive Swarovski crystal chandeliers gleaming in the ceiling and oils of the Sultan playing polo adorning the walls.  Grand banquets are held here but no alcohol!  

The stables once housed close to 4000 polo horses but that number is substantially less these days.

In between our busy day of sightseeing we enjoyed lunch at the Empire Hotel.  This luxurious beach front hotel and country club overlooks the South China Sea and was built at a cost of $350 Million.  The plush restaurant decorated with orchids was staffed by an international team and the offerings were diverse and tasty.  But who knew one of the desserts would be a blackberry and apple crumble!  

We realized that the island of Borneo is not as remote as we had once supposed. 


2 comments:

  1. Pleased you enjoyed Borneo and look forward to talking to you about Brunei. The Empire was our home away from home when we were working there.

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  2. Nice digs. Looking forward to our various chats Roger.

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