BEAUTIFUL BALI THROUGH AMANDARI EYES

Bali's Rice Terraces

The creamy, fleshy fragrance of the tuber roses was almost heady as we adjusted to our first tropical evening in the open air restaurant.  Crickets and frogs warmed up for their evening duet as Balinese musicians performed Gamelan bamboo and flute music, unseen, from a gazebo beyond the pool.

But the predawn symphony the following morning was unequalled.  At about 3 a.m. the lead rooster cleared his throat and before long his compatriots across the river valley, all crowing in different pitches, joined in.  Not to be outdone, the songbirds added their sing-along calls sounding so happy to welcome another day.  In contrast we could also hear other birds with a more guttural abrupt call, adding their contribution, as though to let us know they were there.

Fifty shades of green

Lying in the dark it was as if the Concertmaster had picked up his violin bow and began to play, a cue for the woodwind and percussion sections of the orchestra to warm up.  And the role of the bird with the abrupt call?  Rather like a conductor rapping his baton on the podium.

As the sun rose. Tiny birds darted amongst the foliage around our window.  It was official, we were in paradise!

Our accommodation at the Amandari Resort, just outside Ubud is located above the Ayung River in the most glorious setting. Each free standing thatched accommodation is constructed of coconut wood and teak with a bamboo framed roof layered with Alang Alang thatch.

Entrance through a walled garden

Our hideaway

Now there's a view while eating the cornflakes

The exterior entrance takes one through a Balinese stone gateway and a walled garden, shades of Angkor design.  The interior’s marble floor with private outdoor bathing area flanks the interior bathroom. With several other outdoor patios and a separate outdoor eating area under a thatched gazebo we felt we had found our little piece of heaven.

The public spaces of restaurant, lobby and bar are partially open air and overlook an infinity pool.  The spa treatment rooms are designed the same way with a soothing waterfall on one side. With all these features and wonderful staff it was hard to think about venturing out, but during our four day stay we did manage a few excursions.

Heavy work in the rice paddies

We travelled through the main tourist area and were surprised at how the rice terraces had commercialized since our last visit 13 years ago.  But we did have a clear view of Mount Batur, a dormant volcano with its tell tale lava flows usually shrouded in cloud.  A visit to a local organic tea and coffee plantation we sampled Kopi Luwak or Civet Coffee made from partly digested coffee beans defecated by the Asian palm civet.  Well, we had to try it.  Let’s just say it was rich and very strong.

The ginger, turmeric and lemongrass teas were especially good and somewhat comforting as we waited out a torrential tropical downpour.

Taking a break

One of the many highlights of our Amandari stay was an early morning walk through the flat rice paddies near a busy local morning market. I will remember the hard working farmers toiling in the hot sun next time I put rice in my mouth.  

Our walk through the paddies was an education on the growing process, the irrigation system and crop rotation.  

A group of farmers invited us to join them for breakfast.  

The Balinese feast

Amandari outdid itself in terms of hospitality, putting on an impromptu Balinese feast for “Bapak and Ibu Watson” in a private gazebo above the river.

Babi Guling in progress

Another evening a Babi Guling suckling pig was barbequed over coffee wood and served with Balinese craft beer al fresco by the pool.


We also enjoyed a cultural performance by the Kedewatan village children, many of whom were children of the resort staff.

They practice daily and it shows.

Our very special entertainment!

It’s no wonder the morning chorus and sundown singalong is such a happy one.  Everyone seemed to be at one with the natural environment in this beautiful place.