BEHOLD, THE SPIRIT BEAR!

Maple Leaf - Maybe next time

After several days cruising the inlets of Princess Royal Island we journeyed north towards Gribbell Island where we would have the best opportunity to view the Spirit Bear.

During our cruising we enjoyed sunny days and calm seas but were not prepared for the regular sightings of Fin and Humpback Whales.  They appeared in large numbers and seemed to play with us.

Relaxing on Swell's bow

We met up with Swell’s sister ship, Maple Leaf, in full sail, and it was wonderful to hear Gregg’s cheery voice again. He captains Maple Leaf but had been our naturalist on the Haida Gwaii trip.  We waved hellos while Gregg yelled “I thought you were coming on my boat next!”  Not quite ready for camping at sea on this beautiful but rather small sailboat.

Landing on Gribbell Island

Viewing Platform above
Riordan Creek

We piled into the zodiac cruising to shore for a bit of a challenging landing on Gribbell Island.  

The Waiting Game

There was no way up to the trail other than to clamber on hands and knees over a steep bank of barnacled rocks. Not our finest moment but who's looking. 

A fifteen minute hike along a muddy trail scattered with fallen branches and forest debris, including generous dollops of purple bear scat from digested berries.  A good sign. We met our Gitga'at First Nations guides, Marvin and Chris, who directed us down a steep path to a rustic viewing platform built among the treeline above Riordan Creek, a prime location for viewing Black Bear and their cappuccino coloured kin, the Spirit Bear. 

A Spirit Bear appears

While few in number, the dominant black bear resident on Gribbell Island happens to be a six year old Spirit Bear.  Imagine our excitement when he appeared through the undergrowth trolling the creek for salmon.  Moments later he lumbered across a fallen log disappearing into the brush.

Black Bear

Rising mists over the forest

After a couple of hours of patient waiting a Black Bear sauntered towards us jumping into the water more deftly than his size suggested to snag a salmon thrashing in the shallow water. 

Marvin explained that bears travel up and down the creek in search of salmon, feeding and napping 24 hours a day. Another long wait and our patience was rewarded by several more Black Bear and then the second Spirit Bear sighting we had collectively hoped for.

Spirit Bear walks with purpose

This time a head appeared from behind a grouping of fallen trees straddling the creek.  Hauling himself onto one of the logs crossing the creek with amazing grace he spotted a salmon.  Jumping into the creek his large body sent a torrent of water skyward.  Pausing to consume the catch the Spirit Bear continued his search downstream, coming very close to our viewing platform, so close we could clearly see the texture of his beautiful coat.  Wet from the foray in the water, the contours and tone of the dense fur coat were a sight to behold.  We felt so fortunate to have had this bear viewing opportunity while enjoying the majesty of the forest, the singing birds, the babbling creek - its water crystal clear - and the shards of sunlight that pierced the rising mist.

As a postscript, during William and Kate's official visit to BC in September, the Great Bear Rainforest was confirmed for inclusion in the Queen's Commonwealth Canopy, a project that creates a network of forest conservation initiatives throughout the 53 nations of the Commonwealth. 

A hopeful sign the area will be preserved for future generations.

ALL WRAPPED UP IN THE ARMS OF NATURE

A magical morning cruising the inlets

One of the real pleasures of being on board Swell is its hot tub.  Located at the aft of the vessel affording superb viewing of the passing landscape.  

A dip on a cool day

Our first soak was under blue skies and the setting sun.  Our next under angry skies, choppy seas and boiling waterfalls that thundered into the passage.  

The Captain always seemed to appear with one burning question “what’s missing from this picture” and then a generous serving of wine would appear.

Poor old rat fish

Hard to describe, you had to be here

Doug's adventures with the fishing line unfortunately did not produce the massive halibut we had caught on the last trip.  A rat fish was the result.  Poor thing, a bottom feeder, he returned it to the deep.

Our journey continued south through Mathieson Channel, the mountainsides on either side towered skyward, wispy clouds floating on their peaks.

Breathtaking landscape

Waterfalls disgorged furiously around us until we reached an opening in the channel, slowing and anchoring in Kynoch Inlet.

The zodiac ride into Culpepper Lagoon was magical with sunlight breaking through the sea smoke that had formed on the water’s surface.  

Birds skimmed the water, seals popped their heads up curiously while eagles looked down imperiously on the infiltrators to their paradise.

Colourful vistas

The overhanging branches laden with thick swaths of moss dripped excess water from the early morning rain into the lagoon sending ripples through the glassy water. 

The vista was simply spectacular – crisp on the senses.  

Water and Sky at one

Leaving the Lagoon we motored slowly up Lard Creek in hopes of more Grizzly Bear sightings.  The spawning salmon were in various stages of their spawning cycle providing copious food for the foraging bears.

Vibrant waterfalls

Unfortunately the light wind was not in our favour.  An adult Grizzly Bear was spotted in the creek but our smell had been immediately recognized by the Bear.  He shot up in the water giving us a long hard look then scampered away, splashing furiously until he disappeared from view.  A short sighting but a dramatic one.

A salmon graveyard

Kainet Inlet landing

In the afternoon we explored Kainet Inlet.

Wading ashore in the estuary we strode over sedge, mud, rock, seaweed, rice root and dead salmon.  It was poignant to see so many carcasses strewn around.  In the streams other salmon were in their final death throes after spawning.  A sort of salmon graveyard.  

Gulls swooped down to forage newly deposited salmon eggs while the salmon below them thrashed in the water, continuing on with the final act of their life’s work. 

Wine and Cheese afternoon

Laughter on a chilly morning

Back on board we enjoyed the ambiance of the vessel and the company of our fellow travellers.

A book or two was read on the aft deck this trip, often interrupted by breathtaking brushes with nature.

What a pleasure!

CREATURES OF THE FOREST, CREATURES OF THE DEEP

Dall's porpoises entertain

The sail south from Prince Rupert took us through open water and choppy seas.  The headwinds eventually blew the angriest clouds away and the emerging sunlight caste a rosy glow over the shoreline.

Within a few hours, Dall’s porpoises appeared in droves chasing Swell’s bow as it coursed through the surf.  These stocky creatures moved at lightning speed across and beneath the bow, putting on quite the show.  Adults grow up to seven feet long and weigh close to 500 pounds.  This performance went on for several hours.

Campania Island shoreline

Off for the hike upward

Colourful plant life

Our overnight moorage provided a tranquil resting place before we continued on to Campania Island for a beach walk and forest hike.

A surprising place, reminiscent of the Galapagos, Compania has white sandy beaches and lush vegetation beyond the shoreline.  The mountainous terrain above the forest is craggy and desolate in parts although the range of unusual plant life growing between the outcrops was delicate, colourful and unusual. 

The hike back down to the beach was easier than the ascent, though being sure of foot continued to be a necessity as we stepped over fallen logs, mud and dense undergrowth. Back on board we followed Campania’s coastline although the bright sunny day we had enjoyed was coming to an end.

Dramatic Fin Whale blow

A humpback dives

Racing ahead of the weather, a plan was devised to sail through the night and anchor at the end of one of the fiords off Princess Royal Channel but not before we were treated to a show throughout the afternoon by Humpback and Fin whales.

A curious Grizzly

In the middle of the night we awoke to hear the anchor drop in Khutze Inlet, a spectacular fiord with steep mountains carpeted with verdant vegetation and a network of impressive waterfalls pouring down the mountainsides.

The rain thundered down.  It was going to be a wet exploration of the shoreline and the Khutze River estuary.

Preparing for the hunt

Birdlife was plentiful as we searched for Grizzly Bears. Eagles watched us from the treetops, swooping down to fish for the plentiful spawning salmon.  We were lucky enough to have tremendous bear sightings that morning, initially of two Grizzly Bears wading in the river as they scooped up salmon.

Dreary day on the estuary that teamed with life

Careful to be very quiet we floated silently along the estuary on our zodiac until three Grizzly Bears feasting on salmon came into view.  It was a wonderful sight as all three, a mother and two cubs not yet fully grown, gorged themselves.   

One bear pranced through the water, swiping at a gull that had come to close to his quarry.

The day was wet and miserable.  Low cloud hung over the fiord like a protective blanket but this wonderful brush with nature had lifted our spirits.  

GREAT BEAR BOUND

Kermode or Spirit Bear 

Thirteen minutes in the air and we had arrived at Vancouver Airport from Nanaimo on Vancouver Island to meet our connecting flight to Prince Rupert where we would set out on an eight day discovery through British Columbia's magnificent Great Bear Rainforest on MV Swell. Our second adventure on the Swell.

The area's name - Great Bear Rainforest - was actually coined by environmental groups in the early 1990s. That, together with its elusive inhabitant, the Kermode Bear, has created a mystique of sorts that we hope will protect the future of this beautiful wilderness and its inhabitants.

Black Bear

As for the Kermode Bear's origins, it is a subspecies of the North American black bear with a rare recessive gene that produces a white or cream coat.  It is also known more romantically as the “Spirit Bear” - ghost of the forest.  

Regarded as sacred by First Nations, Spirit Bears are estimated to be about 400 in number and are only found in the Great Bear Rainforest, a 6.4 million hectare ecosystem on British Columbia’s north and central coast.  Experts say that approximately one in ten black bears have light fur and in order to produce white coated cubs, both parents, whether white or black, must carry the gene.

Pristine in the extreme, the area is the world’s largest untouched temperate rainforest but surprisingly 85% of its old growth was only permanently protected from industrial logging in February 2016. 

MV Swell

Pacific salmon are the lifeblood of this wilderness and when their numbers return to spawn Spirit and Black Bears troll the creeks to feast on the dying salmon before going into hibernation. We hoped the timing of our trip would be an ideal opportunity to see one of these magnificent white bears.  There had been lots of rain and creeks and inlets were at elevated levels, enabling the salmon to undertake their dramatic spawning cycle, drawing the bear population, white and black, into the water to hunt.  

Jeff - deck hand, photographer,
and oh yes, marine biologist

By chance we met up with Jeff en route, one of Swell's crew on our Haida Gwaii trip who was rejoining the vessel after a break. Jeff and his crew mates had done a stellar job of helping us appreciate nature's gift on our own doorstep when we traveled through Gwaii Haanas in May. We knew what was in store - another voyage of discovery to a region of our Province we knew next to nothing about. 

As we parted company with Jeff in Prince Rupert I had jokingly requested roses and champagne in our cabin.  He reminded me that there probably wouldn’t be enough room for us and these enhancements. Our Red Alder digs on board are functional, reasonably comfortable in a mini sort of way, but space is not one of its attributes. This is a 100 year old converted tug after all. With that in mind we decided to make the most of our overnight stay at Prince Rupert's Crest Hotel.  Its waterfront restaurant overlooked a misty landscape. 

The Skeena salmon dinner was superb and the Prince Rupert Wheelhouse Flagship pale ale refreshing. We said goodnight to the Swell, docked a short walk away.

See you tomorrow.

A WHALE OF A TALE

Today’s transit to Skedans on the northeast corner of Louise Island took us across open water and the infamous Hacate Strait.  

Living up to its reputation the seas were “mature” according to Greg.  Code for rough.  During the rolling around we were treated to a display from a number of humpback whales that were breaching and diving all around the Swell. Spectacular stuff.

Despite the heavy seas, life on board had been very comfortable this past week.  While cabin space is limited, the main salon was a pleasant place to spend down time, socialize with fellow passengers and crew - and of course enjoy our meals. 

Cocktail hour on the aft deck

Final dinner - rack of lamb

Speaking of which, the food quality on board was astonishingly good.  Chef Lila had certainly perfected her culinary skills before joining the Swell, including spending a spell at one of Vancouver’s top restaurants.  

Every meal she produced was different, beautifully presented with lots of fresh ingredients.  No breakfast or lunch was the same and each evening’s three-course dinner a highlight after a busy day ashore. 

In between meal times there were home made snacks and baking aplenty.  So much for baked beans twice a day on a converted tug.  This was fine dining on a pearl of a vessel.

Because of the weather Skedans proved to be too difficult to reach so we continued on, going ashore for a beach walk, getting soaked then appreciating the skill of the crew getting us back on to the zodiac in tough conditions. 

Soon we had caught up with Maple Leaf Adventures’ sister ship - the Maple Leaf, a gorgeous two mast schooner. 

Captain Steve called Maple Leaf on the radio demanding they down their sails and prepare to be boarded.  Radio silence followed and as we got closer to Maple Leaf we were subjected to a surprise attack.  

Water hoses at full throttle aimed in our direction.

And that’s no whale of a tale.

PADDLING ON A PAINTED OCEAN

An early morning paddle 

We anchored off De La Beche overnight, a sheltered bay surrounded by rocky outcrops and heavily forested above the waterline.  The rock face along the water’s edge was etched with moss and lichen, the colour palate ranging from lime to hunter green.

The kayaks on board Swell are short but very stable which helped matters as we stepped from Swell onto the zodiac and then into the kayak.  Probably not the most graceful of moves, but on the bright side, we didn’t fall in.

Watery reflections everywhere we turned

Just like a duck taking to water, once installed in the kayak with paddle in hand we were off.  The filtered sunlight cast deep shadows over the bay creating the most beautiful watery reflections.  It was as though we were in an impressionist gallery.

Low in the water on the kayak we had a close up view of the fried egg and lions mane jellyfish, their yellow and red colourings providing a dramatic contrast to the greenscape.

Back on board Jeff produced water colours and the would-be artists among us set to work.  A serious session of creativity followed and perhaps a burgeoning hobby too?

Later in the day we arrived at Windy Bay on Lyell Island, the site of a standoff between First Nations and the logging companies in 1985.  It took two years before the matter was settled in favour of the forests. 

A walk through the forest trails with Watchman David revealed the stature of the forest - one 900 year old Sitka Spruce, its girth enormous with a 54 foot circumference stretched majestically skyward. Hard to imagine this was the size of tree the forest companies had been going after.

Posing at the base of a "giant of the forest"

Watchmen on the Legacy Pole
Some wearing gum boots!

David was an engaging host who entertained us during our walk with stories, humour and forest facts.  Old growth Hemlock, Western Red Cedar and Western Sitka Spruce line the banks of a salmon bearing river, the mossy forest floor springy underfoot from the compacted layer of pine needles.  

Part of the trail took us across a river otter’s den with its front and back entrances camouflaged between intertwining tree roots.  

On the opposite side of the stream deer foraged in the grassland. 

David’s colleague Donna explained the story of the legacy pole erected in 2013 to commemorate the establishment of Gwaii Haanas. 

She also pointed out the longhouse that had been erected, initially to house the protesters in the 1980s logging standoff.  Nowadays the longhouse acts as overnight accommodation for the occasional kayaker grounded due to bad weather.

Captain Steve edges us into Anna Inlet

Tonight’s overnight mooring was at Anna Inlet.  Accessible through a narrow entrance the inlet was yet another magical resting point in the green and blue landscape.  Although the presence of a black bear or two raised the wilderness stakes a tad.  
  

HERE'S A LITTLE JINGLE YOU HAVEN'T HEARD IN A WHILE

James waits for us on the beach

SGang Gwaay lies on the exposed southwest coast of Gwaii Haanas - about as far to the south as Masset is to the north in the Haida Gwaii islands group.  

We had now travelled Haida Gwaii from its northern tip to its south western boundary.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981 SGang Gwaay’s village is a sacred site to the Haida.  After the population was decimated by epidemics introduced after first contact, hundreds died and were buried in caves and mortuary houses with high ranking individuals laid to rest atop beautifully carved mortuary poles.  Stepping ashore we reminded ourselves we were about to walk among these spirits on sacred ground.

All that is left - Mortuary Poles overlook the beach on SGang Gwaay

James, the Haida Watchman who greeted us did a fine job, giving an informative description of what the SGang Gwaay village site would have been like in its glory days and the changes that had occurred after first contact leading to the community’s decline.

James gave an engaging description of the Watchmen‘s responsibilities. We were hanging on to his every word.  While James said he was an Eagle we suspected there was an element of the trickster in his DNA - a closet Raven perhaps? 

Describing the maintenance work that takes place on the mortuary poles he explained that he and his fellow Watchmen use a cherry picker (that has seen better days) to reach the top of the structures so that foliage that has taken root in the decaying poles over the past season can be cut back. To pass the time he plays traditional Haida songs on his personal music player.  Speaking to a space at the top of a decaying mortuary pole that had once contained a bent box with the remains of a great chief secured inside he has been heard to quip “here’s a little jingle you haven’t heard in a while” and “will that be a short back and sides this time“.

A beautiful raven mask takes shape

Our tour of the village poles and fallen timbers complete, we walked across the crescent shaped beach through a verdant woodland area to the Watchmen’s Cabin and met the other Watchmen.  

Ken is a talented artist who showed us his sketches and drawings.  Retrieving his latest carving we were impressed to see the form of a raven mask taking shape.  Such a mild mannered man, he didn’t seem aware of his own talent.  Do hope he becomes famous one day.

Halibut and Chips

Back on board, part of the previous day’s halibut catch was served in a beer batter - fish and chips accompanied by Spinnaker craft beer from Victoria.

Fortified, we reboarded the zodiac for a beach walk.  The trail through the forest was a little arduous as the only other users appeared to be the deer.

Crawling under the odd fallen tree and over rotting tree stumps we tramped through the thigh high grass to a secluded beach, its black sand and bleached wood gleaming in the sun.

Quite a lot of debris continues to wash ashore from the Japanese tsunami and Jeff, the marine biologist/photographer/deck hand (a very talented young man) came across a shoe, a few boat floats in various sizes and the inevitable plastic bottles which were collected and taken back to the Swell for disposal. Reboarding the zodiac Captain Steve made us all feel human when he lost his balance and fell into the water!  Unperturbed we motored back to the Swell from this tranquil setting. Our final shore visit that day would be Rose Harbour and the old whaling station.

Rose Harbour is located on private land where a handful of residents live an isolated life and refuse to sell to Parks Canada despite generous offers. 

Before stepping ashore Naturalist Greg made his way to Susan’s house to ask permission to land the party.  Known for her garden and the sumptuous dinners she puts on for local kayaking groups, Susan also has a contract with the Parks Service to undertake beach garbage collection and was not home.

Gutz, another resident who has lived at Rose Harbour for 33 years invited us ashore and we walked amongst the derelict remains of what had been a busy whaling station until it was decommissioned in 1941.  Gutz showed us his latest acquisition, the jawbone from a Finn whale about 8 feet in length.  He hauled out segments of the baleen which the Finn whale uses to filter the krill it consumes - strong and flexible, the baleen has many applications.

Gutz talked about all the items that have washed up on the beach from the tsunami.  The beachfront was crammed with all kinds of marine items, whale bones, machinery from the rusting remnants of the whaling station and other debris.

It was a beautiful evening, the skies were clear and the setting sun caste a golden glow over Rose Harbour as we motored back to the Swell for yet another magnificent dinner produced by Chef Lila.  The wine flowed a little more freely that evening as the group unwound and passed judgement on another fantastic day in Haida Gwaii.

Caesar Salad, Pork Tenderloin and Cheesecake -
the calories mounting up at a frightening rate