PADDLING ON A PAINTED OCEAN

An early morning paddle 

We anchored off De La Beche overnight, a sheltered bay surrounded by rocky outcrops and heavily forested above the waterline.  The rock face along the water’s edge was etched with moss and lichen, the colour palate ranging from lime to hunter green.

The kayaks on board Swell are short but very stable which helped matters as we stepped from Swell onto the zodiac and then into the kayak.  Probably not the most graceful of moves, but on the bright side, we didn’t fall in.

Watery reflections everywhere we turned

Just like a duck taking to water, once installed in the kayak with paddle in hand we were off.  The filtered sunlight cast deep shadows over the bay creating the most beautiful watery reflections.  It was as though we were in an impressionist gallery.

Low in the water on the kayak we had a close up view of the fried egg and lions mane jellyfish, their yellow and red colourings providing a dramatic contrast to the greenscape.

Back on board Jeff produced water colours and the would-be artists among us set to work.  A serious session of creativity followed and perhaps a burgeoning hobby too?

Later in the day we arrived at Windy Bay on Lyell Island, the site of a standoff between First Nations and the logging companies in 1985.  It took two years before the matter was settled in favour of the forests. 

A walk through the forest trails with Watchman David revealed the stature of the forest - one 900 year old Sitka Spruce, its girth enormous with a 54 foot circumference stretched majestically skyward. Hard to imagine this was the size of tree the forest companies had been going after.

Posing at the base of a "giant of the forest"

Watchmen on the Legacy Pole
Some wearing gum boots!

David was an engaging host who entertained us during our walk with stories, humour and forest facts.  Old growth Hemlock, Western Red Cedar and Western Sitka Spruce line the banks of a salmon bearing river, the mossy forest floor springy underfoot from the compacted layer of pine needles.  

Part of the trail took us across a river otter’s den with its front and back entrances camouflaged between intertwining tree roots.  

On the opposite side of the stream deer foraged in the grassland. 

David’s colleague Donna explained the story of the legacy pole erected in 2013 to commemorate the establishment of Gwaii Haanas. 

She also pointed out the longhouse that had been erected, initially to house the protesters in the 1980s logging standoff.  Nowadays the longhouse acts as overnight accommodation for the occasional kayaker grounded due to bad weather.

Captain Steve edges us into Anna Inlet

Tonight’s overnight mooring was at Anna Inlet.  Accessible through a narrow entrance the inlet was yet another magical resting point in the green and blue landscape.  Although the presence of a black bear or two raised the wilderness stakes a tad.