AN OCTOPUS'S GARDEN

Many of the communities that flourished along the coastline of Gwaii Haanas are long gone, their populations ravaged by disease after first contact and then by warring factions within the various tribal clans.  The remaining Haida population consolidated, migrating to the safety of communities further north.  Over the past 150 years or so their empty villages have slowly decayed and are in the process of returning to nature. Sad to say that in a few generations they will be lost forever.

Tanu in its heyday

All that remains of a Tanu longhouse

A recent inventory of the Gwaii Haanas marine area revealed over 600 Haida archaeological sites.  One of the best preserved examples can be found at the foot of Gwaii Haanas at SGang Gwaay, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

With favourable weather, Captain Steve made the decision to first visit Tanu then spend the rest of the day heading south to visit this remarkable site.  That accomplished, we would retrace our way northward to visit other less remote sites protected from the open ocean.

During the summer months, the Haida Gwaii Watchmen Program gets underway, their members serving as guardians and hosts of this and four other Haida village sites down the coast - Skedans, Tanu, Windy Bay and Hotspring Island. 

Taking the zodiac ashore we met Walter and Mary, the Watchers of Tanu, viewing the decaying remains of dwellings that had once stood, now blanketed in a carpet of emerald green moss and lichen. Nurselings stretched to the sky from the remains of fallen beams and mortuary poles. 
 

Raven's magnificent hat and Haida Watchmen T shirt

Walking out to the headland we studied the octopus’s gardens on the shoreline constructed at one time to trap octopus in the changing tide.  Had Ringo Starr received his inspiration from this place? Likely not, but a colourful idea.

Mary introduced us to her step-daughter Raven, a precocious three year old who eventually consented to donning her cedar hat. The traditional Haida hat was beautifully woven with cedar and strands of copper.  

After some encouragement from her admirers it was smiles and photos all round.

Lunch on board - hamburger
on a home made bun

The famed Haida artist Bill Reid is buried on Tanu, his grave overlooking the moody sea.  By now the rain had stopped.  The reflections cast by the trees and mountainsides into the water made our experience feel almost ethereal.

But the excitement was not over for the day.  

Back on board those who had decided to fish took their positions on deck.  It didn’t take long before ling cod appeared on the line and then to everyone’s surprise a 60 pound halibut that fought furiously before it was brought on board to be dealt with by Naturalist Greg who expertly dispatched the fish and prepared an enormous container of fillets ready for the galley.

Earlier in the day Mary had presented Greg with freshly caught sockeye salmon which was on tonight’s menu. With ling cod and halibut likely to follow on successive evenings it left Doug pondering his options.  

Delicious salmon entree

Doug doesn't look too worried about the seafood offensive

A good thing our wonderful crew had taken his dislike of fish into account.  

Chicken for Doug.  

All the more for us!