THE EAGLE AND THE RAVEN

According to Haida tradition, you are born to one of two clans - the Eagle or the Raven.  Haida Gwaii - Islands of the People - has a rich, colourful culture, its origins dating back thousands of years. 

As with all ancient cultures, the natural order of things becomes irreversibly altered as external influences appear.  When the first European explorers discovered these beautiful islands off the west coast of British Columbia nothing would ever be the same again.  After first contact a familiar pattern of disease, colonization and exploitation took its toll. 

While some things change forever, other aspects of a culture endure and it was our introduction to Haida Gwaii that could not help but touch us - its history, raw beauty and traditions, literally on our own back doorstep.

Over 400 islands located at the tip of a submerged ridge make up Haida Gwaii. To the west, the continental shelf drops sharply into the Pacific Ocean while to the east, the shallow Hecate Strait, notorious for its high winds, is also well known for its fishing grounds.  

There are two main islands on Haida Gwaii - Graham and Moresby where the bulk of the 4500 population live.   A paved highway runs from Sandspit on Moresby, north to Old Masset at the top end of Graham, passing through the communities of Queen Charlotte, Skidegate, Tlell, Port Clements and Masset.  Haida Gwaii is located on a fault line and has suffered through two of Canada’s strongest earthquakes, a 7.7 magnitude in 2012 and an 8.1 magnitude in 1949.

A two hour flight brought us from Vancouver to Masset.  Our lodge accommodation on North Beach overlooked a wild headland where on a clear day the Alaska coastline is visible.  But not today. The weather, while temperate, is changeable in the extreme and we were greeted by low cloud, light rain and weak attempts by the sun to show its face.

Mystical sea creature perhaps?

Our first excursion into the surrounding area look us along a gravel road lined with Sitka Spruce, Western Red Cedar and Western Hemlock.  Tree branches supported oddly shaped bundles of brightly coloured moss.  

They, like the Haida, came with a bit of a mystique, some appearing to take the shape of recognizable forms like a bear, a raven or a whale. It was strange how easy it was to see these apparitions hanging in the trees.  

In the distance we could hear the ocean, the tide rushing up the shoreline, receding just as rapidly. 

Hiking from North Beach to the summit of Tow Hill the views over the coastline to Rose Spit were formidable as the surf crashed on the sandy beaches below. 

Raven and the First Men

This would be one of those aha moments.  We have long admired Bill Reid’s work, and in particular his cedar carving of Raven and the First Men which resides at the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver.  

Raven, the trickster, tries various strategies to coax a group of small men hiding inside a clam shell out on the beach on the Rose Spit coastline.  Timidity eventually overcome, they appeared.  In local mythology, this marked the birth of the Haida Nation.  

A tad spine tingling. 

Surveying his territory

A lone eagle swooped down onto a tree below us and took in the view.  Its not often one can say we looked down on an eagle perched high in the treeline.

Legends abound on Haida Gwaii - for instance the story of the Golden Spruce, a freak of nature revered and honoured by the Haida. Its destruction by a disaffected logger created enormous controversy. He was making a statement about logging practices not appreciating that the Haida regarded the tree as spiritual.

Memorial Poles outside the
Haida Heritage Centre

The Haida Heritage Centre at Skidegate is not to be missed. Located on the site of an old Haida village, its six memorial poles outside the building speak to the Haida clans and their traditions in dramatic fashion.  Each one is beautifully carved with crests and other decorations.

A short ferry ride on MV Kwuna took us south across the inlet to Moresby Island.  This was followed by a tedious journey along a bumpy, potholed logging road.  

Using a radio call system, the driver reported in regularly to ensure our small vehicle would not come a cropper as logging trucks barreled down the gravel road sending dust and grit into the air in voluminous brown choking clouds. After a seemingly endless hour of dust and clearcuts we arrived at our destination of Moresby Camp.  

At last!

MV Swell

A tranquil bay with sweeping views.  Our home for the next week was anchored offshore - MV Swell - a beautifully restored tugboat that would take us south to the tip of Gwaii Haanas - Islands of Beauty. 

Good thing we are on speaking terms!

Chef Lila at work 

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site has no roads, population or cellphone coverage and we would be discovering this remote beautiful place over the next week.

We unpacked in our cramped quarters.  

The Red Alder suite turned out to have many hiding places for stowing essential outer clothing and boots.  

Over cocktails we gathered in the Salon to receive introductions from Captain Steve and his four member crew - Given, Greg, Steve and Lila. We couldn't have asked for better.

Considering the compact galley, Chef Lila produced an elaborate three course dinner accompanied by BC wines while animated dialogue ensued on the journey to come.